Wednesday, August 29, 2012

Circut Breakers

Circuit Breaker, an electric switch designed to break (open) an electric circuit automatically when the circuit is subjected to abnormal conditions. Once the problem in the electric circuit is corrected, a circuit breaker can simply be reset, unlike a fuse, which must be replaced.

A circuit breaker operates by separating two electrical contacts. In a typical home circuit breaker, the contacts are...
pulled apart by a spring-loaded lever when a catch restraining the lever is released. The catch can be released by either a thermal or an electromagnetic element. The thermal element consists of a bimetallic strip that bends as it is heated. The bending that results from overheating in the circuit, as when too much electricity is being drawn from it, is sufficient to release the catch. The electromagnetic element releases the catch by means of the magnetic force that arises when there is a surge of current through the element. Such a surge will occur with a short circuit.

Smoke Detectors & GFCI Outlets

When was the last time you tested your smoke detectors and GFCI outlets? It takes only a couple minutes! Do it!

Timers and Sensors- save $$

Timers and sensors on low usage areas

It’s easy to accidentally leave exterior house lights and electrical installations running, unnecessarily costing you money.
Your electrician can put timers and sensors on all outdoor lights, so they’ll only come on when needed and won’t be left burning.

Halogen lights vs LEDs

Halogen lights vs LEDs

Halogen down lights are commonly installed by electricians in newer homes – but they are far from efficient. This means they consume a great deal of power for the light they produce, and the additional heat can pose a fire hazard.
We recommend changing halogen down lights over to LEDs, which run at a fifth of the cost of halogen bulbs.
Available in a range of options including cool, warm-white and natural, LEDs provide the same lighting that you enjoy.
While LED lights are more expensive than halogens to install, in the long run they are far more cost-effective. For instance, the bulb life of a typical halogen down light is often only 100 to 1,000 hours… but with LEDs, the bulb life is up to 50,000 hours.
The initial cost of LED lights can also be made more manageable by installing them first in the high-usage areas of the home. Implementing LED lights in rooms such as the kitchen and family room and leaving halogen lights in the rooms that are rarely used (such as the garage or laundry) means that changeover costs can be much lower.

Friday, August 10, 2012

All Tech Electric & Contracting LLC: Electric FiresProtect your home from danger this w...

All Tech Electric & Contracting LLC: Electric FiresProtect your home from danger this w...: Electric Fires Protect your home from danger this winter. With the winter upon us, this is the time of the year with the highest percent...

Electric Fires

Protect your home from danger this winter.

With the winter upon us, this is the time of the year with the highest percentage of home fires occur.You can avoid the potential by following a few precautions.
1. Make sure you have working smoke detectors in all areas of the home including each bedroom. Smoke detectors should be of the type that will set off all of the detectors if any one goes off. Check the detectors to make sure they are working and replace if the detectors are more than 10 years old. They should be replaced every 10 years according to the manufacturer and the National Fire Prevention Association. Never disable a smoke detector, if it chirps it means they battery needs changing or the detector is bad, which needs to be replaced. If you need a new battery operated smoke detector, call us for a free one.
2. It is easy to overload circuits and invite fires. With the winter season here many people plug in portable heaters into undersize extension cords which can over heat and burn before the circuit breaker trips. Also be aware of plugging in multiple items in "power strips". This can easily over load the circuit causing the cords or house wiring to heat and burn. This is especially true in older homes. (1970's and older). Homes built between 1969 and 1974 have the potential to have aluminum wiring which is a potential hazard as it can create loose connections on receptacles and switches which can create overheating and burning. Due to this aluminum wiring was no longer allowed for home construction since 1974. If you have concerns, please call for home safety inspection.
3. Homes older than 20 years should have a safety inspection to determine that all switches and receptacles are in good condition and connections are tight. Arc fault circuit breakers are now available and required in new homes. These breakers are designed to trip if the is the slightest arc or spark due to circuit failure. These items alone can prevent injury or loss of life due to electrical fires.

Attic Fans and Ceiling Fans

Each one provides a different function but both can save you money.

Summer is the time to think about installing attic fans and ceiling fans.

The attic fan is installed either in the roof or gable end of the attic, it is controlled by a thermostat and sometimes a humidistat as well. The attic fan has more benefits than just cooling down the attic, though that is the primary function.
An Attic can reach as high as 135 degrees in the summertime, an attic fan can reduce that by as much as 25 -30 degrees. This is still very warm but reducing the attic temperature that much your cooling costs will be reduced and it will make you A/C unit work less hard. Along with heat in the attic comes humidity, this can damage stored items such as clothing by creating mold and mildew. By moving the air and reducing the temperature the humidity gets reduced as well.
Another little known benefit of reducing the attic temperature is that it can increase the life of you roof shingle. Heat and humidity are enemies of the shingle by reducing the heat from below it can increase the life of roof shingle by as much as 25%. The time to install these devices is now before the blistering heat of summer arrives.
A ceiling fan is another household item that can benefit the home owner as well. We all know ceiling fans will help cool you down. By moving air even though the temperature is still the same but it gives the perception of being cooler. When air moves across the skin it helps cool, as a result you can keep your thermostat set a little higher while staying cooler. This allows your cooling system to work less and saves money. These fans can save money in the winter as well. By reversing the fan blades it draws the air up not blowing down on you making you feel colder. It moves air from below towards the ceiling and that moves the trapped warm air down to the living space. Your heat pump, furnace or baseboard heaters work less and come on less saving heating costs. Many times these items can pay for themselves in the first year.

All Tech Electric & Contracting LLC: Importance of Uprading your Electricial Panel

All Tech Electric & Contracting LLC: Importance of Uprading your Electricial Panel: Many homes built before 1974 have electrical panels that have potential problems or even safety hazards. Very early homes still have old fu...

Importance of Upgrading Your Electricial Panel

Many homes built before 1974 have electrical panels that have potential problems or even safety hazards. Very early homes still have old fuse style panels, these panels require the home owner to change fuses when they get overloaded and blow. This creates issues because the home owner may not have the proper fuse and may put in a fuse that is too large. Or the home owner may not have a spare fuse at all leaving the circuit off until one can be purchased.
Fuse panels when they were installed were state of the art and still in theory work just fine today, the issues come up due to age. They will invariably corrode and deteriorate over time and causing loss of power or burning of the panel.
Changing to modern day circuit breaker panel will eliminate the hazard of corroded or deteriorated panel, plus there is no fuse to change just reset the breaker.
Some other style of older panels is a brand called Federal Pacific, These can be identified by the red handled circuit breakers. These panels were installed from the 1970's up to 1983. These Federal Pacific breakers have reputation of not tripping when required to do so causing the overload to burn or the breaker itself to burn in the panel. There is a lot of information on line about these panels.
Another style of panel is called a split bus panel, these can be identified because they have no main circuit breaker and have 6 double breakers on top and many single style breakers below. The main problem with this style is again age, also it is difficult for the home owner to know how to shut the panel down if they need to.
By upgrading to a newer modern style panel you are assured of safety and convenience. A new panel may be able to have more room for additional circuits if required. Most older home were built with 100 amp electrical services. This was more than adequate in the day but with all the electronics and appliances an upgrade to 200 amps is a wise decision. It not only allows for future expansion of the home but can allow for new heat and cooling systems to be installed. This will also be an enhancement to the home should you ever decide to sell. There are many good reasons to upgrade now, Safety, convenience and value.

Electrical Panel Upgrade

Electrical Panel Upgrade

The ability for a home owner to make improvements in their home may depend on the size of their electrical panel. In most jurisdictions the minimum size electrical panel is 150 amps. Many appliances in your home require dedicated circuits. The more appliances one has in their home the larger the panel needs to be. The expression "heavy-up" refers to increasing the capacity of the electrical panel from its current size to a larger size. Heavy-up could also mean changing your fuse panel to a circuit breaker panel. It is important to note there are some home insurance companies that will not insure homes with fuse panels. This is because homeowners could possibly install the wrong fuse (larger) in the fuse holder allowing more current to flow through the electrical circuit. When an electrical wire (eg. size 14awg will carry 15 amps) is over fused and is able to carry more current for which the wire is rated. This conductor could overheat and possibly start a fire. Many appliances are required to be on dedicated circuits so that the circuits will not become over loaded and "trip" the circuit breaker. When the breaker trips it is a safety precaution. It means the wire is carrying more current than what it is rated for and the breaker trips to protect the wire from overheating and fire. Breakers will also trip when the current is shorted to ground.
There are three basic parts to the heavy-up. They are the service cable, the breaker panel and the grounding. All three comprise the heavy-up process and all three are important and must be completed in order for the heavy-up process to be complete. Please remember the heavy-up process will require an electrical permit and only a licensed electrical contractor can obtain an electrical permit from the jurisdiction in which they are licensed. You should ask to see the electrical permit before allowing the contractor to start the work and definitely have the permit before you make the final payment. The service entrance cable (SEC) runs from the top of the house to the power company meter and on to the electrical panel. This wire is rated for the same size as your new electrical panel. If your service is being increased to 200 amps, your service cable must be rated at 200 amps also. The second part of the job is the electrical panel. The electrical panel must have a main breaker. This is to protect the SEC feeding the new panel. The new panel will likely have the ability to hold 40 single pole breakers. This is an important item to check on your contract. Some panels may only hold 20 breakers. Once the panel is full the only way to get additional circuits is to use tandem breakers which are more expensive or to install a sub panel which is substantially more expensive. The 40 space panel is slightly more expensive than a 20 space panel but worth the investment. You certainly want room for future expansion. The last item and possibly the most important of the heavy-up is the grounding. Although somewhat technical I will keep the explanation simple. The grounding system has two basic functions one to protect against lightning strikes and two to protect against faults. The two grounding conductors must be continuous without splice and as short as possible. The first ground is from the electrical panel to a ground rod. Other methods are acceptable but the ground rod is the most popular. The second ground is from the electrical panel to the main cold water cut off connection. Some jurisdictions require the gas line to also be grounded. This is another reason why using a licensed contractor and obtaining an electrical permit is important. In addition to having a licensed contractor who should know what they are doing you will also have an electrical inspector check the final installation.
The final person you will be dealing with is your power utility company. They will make the final connections in the meter socket and at the top near the roof. The cables will be temporarily spliced together by the electrical contractor so you will have power but the power company will make the permanent connections. This process may take a while depending on the time of year and the power company.  Your electrical contractor may be able to help you if the process is taking too long. The temporary splices may be unsightly but the electrical contractor will make them safe. I am sure you will not hurt their feelings if you question him on the safety of the splices.
There are different scenarios in doing a heavy up but the one I have described above is the most common. Of all heavy up scenarios possible the one described above would cover at least 85% of all installations. Another reason to work with a licensed contractor and to obtain a permit is that any deviation from above the contractor would know how to handle the change and the inspector would know what to look for. Always contact your local jurisdiction to find out if the contractor submitting the bid is licensed in that jurisdiction. Remember this is your home and your first priority is safety.

Sunday, August 5, 2012

Is this OSHA approved?

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Utility Meter

Utility Meter Surveys


utility meters
Are you paying for some of your neighbor's utility bills?

www.kansas-electrician.com

Bathrooms- Exhaust Vent and Fan

Exhaust Vent and Fan



The sink, tub and especially the shower introduce a lot of moisture into the bathroom. Therefore, proper ventilation of the bathroom is essential to prevent mold, rot or other moisture-related problems. Exhaust fans and vents are installed to ventilate and remove moisture in all new bathrooms. The fan unit is usually ceiling-mounted and directs the air through a vent to the exterior of the house. Though now generaly required on new homes, older houses often make use of a window instead of exhaust fans to ventilate the bathroom.
A common problem with exhaust fans and vents is when the vent terminates someplace other than the exterior of the building. Improperly terminated exhaust vents typically terminate in the attic, which causes excessive moisture in the attic. This buildup of excessive moisture can lead to moisture-related problems such as wood rot in the structural components of the home.
Many exhaust fans do more than just vent. Additionally, exhaust fans integrate normal incandescent or neon lighting within the fan housing. Some even integrate infrared heat lamps to warm the bathroom.     All Tech Electric & Contracting LLC

Smoke Detectors

Smoke Detector Inspection Guidelines


Smoke detectors are a simple and efficient way to protect homeowners from severe injury or even deaths resulting from home fires. The Housing and Urban Development (HUD) estimates that a home fire occurs every 66 seconds in the U.S. The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) estimates that having operating smoke detectors in the home reduce the possibility of dying from a fire by 50%. However, even though an estimated 13 out of 14 homes (93%) have at least one smoke detector, an estimated 1/3 of the smoke detectors are not properly maintained or operating.
The value of smoke detectors is underestimated due to common misconceptions about their usefulness and a person's inability to detect a fire on their own. Here are some important facts about fires.
  • The majority of fires occur at night when the occupants of the home are sleeping.
  • If a fire starts in the living room of a home, occupants in a bedroom on the same level could be dead in as little as two minutes.
  • Most victims of fires die of smoke asphyxiation.
  • Smoke will NOT wake up the occupant. On the contrary, gasses and smoke will numb the senses and cause unconsciousness.
Smoke detectors are designed to give the occupants in the home precious few minutes they need to escape.

Home Inspections- Kitchen

Kitchen Appliance Inspections


Ranges and Wall Ovens - Ranges and ovens normally last 15-20 years, however, some units may last 30 years or more.
  • Turn on all heating elements to see that they are functioning properly.
  • Check the "clean" cycle. The instructions for checking the "clean" cycle are usually printed on the oven door or in the vicinity of the control mechanism.
  • Ensure that a gas range has a pilot light, and that it does, in fact, light the burners.
  • If conditions are suspect, and an electric range is present, you may want to turn all the range and oven elements on at the same time. The circuit breaker may be undersized or defective and may trip.
  • Indicator lights, as well as interior lights often do not work.
  • Are the smooth surface type of electric ranges scratched, marred?
  • You should not be able to tip a range/oven forward more than 1 - 1.5 inches. If you can tip the range more than that, then the unit does not have anti-tip brackets installed. These brackets are installed on the wall behind the range/oven, usually engaging one of the ‘feet', to help prevent the range/oven from tipping over and possibly spilling boiling pots on the range.
  • If you can view behind the gas range/oven, check to see if a shut off valve is present on the gas line.
  • It is currently recommended all gas lines be either black pipe or flexible steel (or even stainless steel; CSST). If you see brass or copper, then the line will need to be replaced. These two materials (brass and copper) are no longer approved for use with natural gas. Note: copper is still acceptable for use with propane.
Refrigerators - The life expectancy of refrigerators is 15-20 years.
  • Check to see that they do, in fact, cool.
  • Check the bottom of the door gasket for condition. Look for signs of moisture, rust or condensation on metal surfaces near the seal.
  • Shelves in older refrigerators may be broken or the liner may be cracked.
  • Many refrigerators have reversible door hinges, which are very easy to change.
  • If the refrigerator is built in to the cabinets, take a look at the compressor and associated fan. These items will require periodic cleaning (more often with animals present) to help maintain the efficiency of the unit.
  • Remember, if a refrigerator has a built in filter for drinking water, it will require periodic changing.
Garbage Disposals - The life expectancy of garbage disposals is 5-10 years.
  • Water should be run through the disposal during operation.
  • The disposals that make a great deal of noise are very often failing or near the end of their life.
  • The dishwasher is allowed to discharge into the garbage disposal.
  • Check the wiring under the sink; no exposed wiring
  • Check the rubber splash guard. If this is damaged, then water could be thrown back up into the kitchen.
Dishwashers - The life expectancy is 7-12 years.
  • Let the dishwasher run through a light or full cycle.
  • Check the soap tray for proper operation after a cycle is complete.
  • Check the gasket around the door.
  • Run your hand under the front panel of the dishwasher after operation to check for leaks.
  • If the air gap at the top of the sink exhibits previous or current evidence of overflow, it indicates that the water is not being discharged properly.
  • Newer models have a water heating cycle allowing the occupant to limit the domestic hot water to 110° Fahrenheit.
Ventilator - The life expectancy of a ventilator is normally 20+ years.
  • Recirculating can either be free standing or can be incorporated into a microwave.
  • Exterior discharge: either through a side exterior wall or the roof, and ‘downdraft' which discharges the air down through a duct below the floor, then to the exterior.
  • Recirculating ventilators can sometimes be configured for either recirculating or exterior discharge. Turn the unit on and try to determine where the air vents to. If you don't feel it coming out of the top of the front of the unit, then check the cabinets above for a vent. If a vent is present, follow the vent to make sure the air is properly discharged to the exterior. Sometimes recirculating ventilators are improperly installed: they are configured for direct vent, yet no vent is available.
  • Check to ensure that the exterior discharge ventilators actually vent to the outside. This is easily done by turning it on and going outside to observe an air flow (the weather flap will move).
  • Check to ensure that the ventilator has a filter(s).
Trash Compactors - The life expectancy of a trash compactor is approximately 5-10 years.
  • The best way to check a trash compactor is to start it through a cycle, then stop it and attempt to open the door. If the plunger is in the “down” position, you should not be able to open it, and it is probably operating properly.
  • Trash compactors are not very popular. The reason for this is that the garbage bags are costly; they also have a tendency to produce odors and attract pests.
Inside Barbecue Grills
  • Interior barbecue grills normally are of a brick configuration. They are often poorly designed and may smoke. Carefully observe the surrounding surfaces for smoke stains.
Counter Built-In Food Processors
  • They are less popular in newer construction.
  • These are devices that have a variety of attachments for processing food. There are two round disks located in the top of the counter; one is a switch, the other is a drive shaft. Check the drive shaft to be sure it is operating (i.e. turning).
Electrical Outlets
  • Modern code requires one 20 amp electrical outlet for every 4 linear feet of counter space. In most jurisdictions, these outlets must be GFCI protected when located within 6 feet of the sink.
  • Shorter pieces of counter, about 2 feet long, require an additional outlet. Older homes frequently have an insufficient number of outlets for modern codes, however, they are not required in homes built before the respective codes.
Intercoms
  • The master station of intercoms is often located in the kitchen.
  • When you are at the master station, turn on the master and each of the stations. As you go through the various rooms, check to make sure the stations are working.
Microwave Ovens
  • Microwave ovens are checked using a glass of water and heating it for about one minute.
  • Surface lights (underside) should be checked for operability.
Instant Hot Appliances
  • Instant hot appliances provide hot water through the use of an electric element, and are normally located at the kitchen sink. They should provide water at approximately 190°F.
Sink

Wire and Cable Amacities

Wire and Cable Ampacities


AWG#
COPPER
COPPERCLAD AL OR ALUMINUM
18 Typically lampcord wiring and low voltage applications
16 Typically lampcord wiring and low voltage applications
1415 Amps
1220 Amps15 Amps
1030 Amps20 Amps
850 Amps30 Amps
665 Amps50 Amps
4100 Amps70 Amps
3110 Amps80 Amps
2125 Amps100 Amps
1150 Amps110 Amps
1/0175 Amps125 Amps
2/0200 Amps150 Amps
3/0175 Amps
4/0200 Amps

Solid Conductor Aluminum Wiring

Solid Conductor Aluminum Wiring

Small, solid conductor aluminum wiring, such as 10 gauge, rated 20 amps and 12 gauge rated 15 amps, was used from 1965 to 1974. In 1975, the NEC prohibited the use of solid conductor aluminum wiring.
The main concern with small gauge, solid conductor aluminum wiring is its expansion characteristics when heated. If the wire is in a situation where the amount of current that is being drawn does not heat the wire, there will be no typical aluminum wire related concerns (i.e., if an aluminum wire circuit only serves a lamp and a TV, it will not draw enough current to cause expansion problems). A 15-amp circuit that is serving a lamp and a TV will have a maximum load of only about 3 or 4 amps. This is not nearly enough to cause aluminum wire concerns due to heat.
To determine how much current a circuit is drawing, divide the wattage rating of the lighting and or appliances on the circuit and divide by the voltage. Watts = Amps X Volts so a 100 watt light bulb divided by 120 volts equals .8 amps.
When almost anything is heated, expansion will occur. Materials of different densities will expand at different rates. When an aluminum wire is attached to a steel alloy contact with a similar steel screw, and the contact, screw and wire is heated by the current moving through the circuit, everything expands. During this process, the density of the steel will tend to distort the aluminum wire. When the contact cools, the steel alloy will return to its original size, while the aluminum, which was distorted, will not.
When aluminum is exposed to air, a film of aluminum oxide forms on the metal's surface. The oxide formation causes the wire to loosen under the mounting screws. When the screws are worked loose, the oxidation of the aluminum wire under the screws heat and create a fire hazard.
When there is enough distortion, the aluminum wire will become loose at the contact. It may not appear loose, because it may not come off, as you would expect from a loose wire. The loose aluminum wire may function with micro arcing, which will cause more heat at the contact and make the problem worse. The additional heat causes stress on the wire, and may cause a slight fracture in the run of the wire about 1/8 inch from the contact. This fracture causes additional micro arcing and even more heat. Fractures occur at this point because this is the point of maximum temperature difference or change. When multiple arcing occurs, the potential for excessive heat and possibly a fire may be present.
The apparent solution to the problem would be to remove the aluminum wire from the steel alloy contacts. The original suggestion was to pigtail the aluminum wire with a piece of copper wire and to attach the copper wire onto the steel contact. This would have been acceptable, except for the fact that the aluminum and copper, being dissimilar, corrode due to oxidation when they are in contact with each other.
To help eliminate the problems and concerns, device manufacturers developed switches and outlets designed to receive copper or aluminum. These devices were called co/al devices, however, they were not as effective as the manufacturers had anticipated, and were revised. The revised devices are called co/alr, the "r" meaning revised.
With the co/alr devices, the switch and outlet concerns were addressed, however, there is still a concern with fixtures that are wired directly, such as a chandelier. In most cases, and assuming they are wired correctly and the loads are properly calculated, there should be no problems, because the amount of heat generated by these fixtures is not enough to stress or overload the wire. The concerns are related to situations that are unknown or where the wiring or calculations are incorrect.
AMP Corporation designed a wire crimping tool and system that will provide dependable results with aluminum to copper connections. The crimp is designed to ensure that air does not come between the aluminum and copper. After the connection is crimped, it is covered with a sleeve, which is shrunk around the connection. This process minimizes oxidation at the contact. This is the only system that the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) has accepted. 1. The CPSC does not recognize any other system or correction as acceptable. This creates legal concerns for anyone who may recommend a different solution. 2. AMP Corporation does not sell the crimping tool; they have patents pending and only allow users to lease the equipment. This limits access for residential or small work, because it is difficult to justify leasing costs for one house. 3. The number of "qualified" electricians that have gone through the AMP training creates further limitations. There are very few electricians in the country that have gone through the training, and most are commercial electricians. Based on this situation, we as home inspectors cannot recommend this as a solution, because most of our clients will not be able to find a qualified electrician in their area. 4. Our posture is to explain the aluminum wire situation so that our client understands the concerns, and recommend a licensed electrician to determine the best action.
The NEC and most jurisdictions recognize twister wire nuts and co-alr device usage. The CPSC has not required the removal of the other two methods from the marketplace. This would suggest that there is insufficient research to ban the use of these products.
ASHI and NAHI standards, as well as the ERC inspection guide require inspectors to report the presence of solid conductor aluminum wire.

Electrical Concerns - Home Inspections

Electrical Concerns
There are many specific deficiencies that may be encountered during the inspection of an electrical system. The following are some of the more common concerns:
  • Open or uncovered junction boxes. All junction boxes must be properly covered.
  • Exposed wires outside the junction boxes. All terminations of electrical wiring must be made inside an approved and covered junction box.
  • Improperly spliced wire. All splicings or connections must be made inside a junction box or panel box. Exception: knob and tube wire that has been soldered and taped. Splices, which are in the panel, are only allowed to extend a wire.
  • Improperly wired outlets. Use your receptacle analyzer to check the outlets at the user end. Note any defects, such as reversed polarity, open ground, etc.
  • Improperly hung or unsecured electrical wires. Wire must be secured to studs or passed through drilled holes in studs/beams/joists.
  • Lack of GFCI control devices. Current lectrical building code does require all exterior, bathroom, kitchen (within 6' of sink), garage, and one basement circuit to be protected by Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters. Check with the authorities in your area for local requirements.
  • Improperly stapled wiring. All staples should be an improved type, insulated, and must not dig into or otherwise damage the insulation of the wiring.
  • Extension cord wiring. Extension cord wiring is considered temporary, and should never be used as permanent wiring.
  • Wiring that rests on heat pipes, heat ducts, or other pipes is prohibited.
  • Wiring passing through or over sharp metal objects, fireproofing or heat ducts, must be properly secured/protected to prevent damage.
  • Frayed, brittle or fragile wiring insulation or other deterioration that could create a hazard should be replaced.
  • Knob and tube style wiring. This is an older (1920's) wiring system which is ungrounded and would not meet electrical code today. Any receptacle or fixture tied to this older wiring is considered unsafe. Evaluate the older 2-slot outlets. Note that these outlets do not provide a third ground slot. Upgrading to 3-slot outlets should be considered, if proper grounds can be installed without a disproportionate amount of work. Knob and tube wiring was the most widely used type in frame buildings until the 1920s and had virtually disappeared by the early 1930s when BX wiring systems replaced it. The dangers of knob and tube wiring lay in a combination of issues of both exposed and concealed systems. Early in the 1900's, the NEC began to recognize the inherent problems with concealment of this type of wiring. They began to require placement of the wires in dry areas only and a separation distance of 5 inches between the wires. Extreme caution should be used when encountering this type of wiring due to its age and very possible damaged or deteriorated insulation.
  • Wiring smaller than #6 in size should pass through holes in joists when running perpendicular to them.
  • Wires running across the ends of joists need to be fastened to running boards.
  • Wiring running across the joists must be installed so that the wire is not at the exposed end of the joist.
  • Staples and hangers should be no more than 4½' apart, and no less than 12" from any enclosure or junction box.
  • Overcrowded junction boxes. This can be established by determining the number of conductors entering and leaving the junction boxes. Junction boxes are sized in accordance with NEC 370-16. The determination is beyond the scope of a visual home inspection. However, a prudent consultant would note the presence of a large number of circuits in any system. It is not recommended that the covers to the junction boxes are removed for this analysis, however, it is the best way to evaluate older wiring.
  • A lack of sufficient outlets. This is typical in older homes and it may not be a problem or a situation that can be enforced.
  • Evaluate conditions in closet areas. Check to insure that there is 18 inches of clearance between incandescent lighting fixtures, and 6 inches of clearance between florescent fixtures, and combustible materials. Note any bare or exposed light bulbs that may exist in a closet area.
Most of the items listed above may create serious safety concerns. Others, such as, the lack of a ledger or label, anti corrosive gel or the presence of a low voltage transformer in the panel, may not pose the same urgency.

Friday, August 3, 2012

All Tech Electric & Contracting LLC: Installing Saunas - check us out first - save thou...

All Tech Electric & Contracting LLC: Installing Saunas - check us out first - save thou...: A very hot gift for a very cool lady....or a cool gift for a very hot lady...her 50th b-day and she was TOTALLY BLOWN AWAY...After deliver...

Ceilings Fans help reduce Cooling Bills

Ceiling Fans can help Save Energy During Summer

To enjoy the full cooling effects of a ceiling fan, the fan should have reversible direction switch which is typically found on the center hub where the light fixture may be mounted.
Single-direction fans are generally useful only for cooling.
The air movement from a ceiling fan makes the occupants feel mo...
re comfortable. Ceiling fans cool in the summer by wind chill. In the summer, a ceiling fan makes the air seem as much as eight degrees (Fahrenheit) cooler.

The breeze of a ceiling fan can make a temperature of 78-80 degrees feel like 72, so the air conditioning thermostat can stay set at 78, resulting in a lower electric bill.

Generator Basics/All Tech Elec. & Contracting

Generator Basics
Generators smaller then 4,000 watts are in most instances not capable of powering a home during a power outage because they can not provide the needed power for electrical loads such as motors, well pumps and ventilation blowers on a central heating system.
Home-Generators
A typical home supplied with 200-amp electric service can ...
actually support a load of approximately 45,000 watts (45kW) of electric demand.
Basic Portable Generators
Portable generators are produced in sizes ranging from a few hundred watts to 15,000 watts (15kW).
Basic Standby Generators
A standby generator is a permanently installed generator that is attached to your electrical service panel. Most of the standby generators start automatically and are connected to a large fuel source such as propane or diesel fuel.
Even if you were to purchase a 10,000 to 15,000 watt portable generator you would find it more expensive, difficult to move, noisy, and the fuel consumption will be large.

Typically you will not be able to run you home's central air conditioning system or electric heat pump even with a 15,000 watt portable generator.

Electricial Junction Boxes

Electrical Junction Boxes, Fixture Boxes, Receptacle Boxes, Splice Boxes 

One very important component is the box where the wire will be installed. The type and size of the home wiring electrical boxes will depend upon the circuit size, ap
plication and its location.
Box Fill - How many wires you can put in a box? The NEC Code requires wiring to be protected and enclosed when devices such as rece
ptacles, fixtures and switches are being installed. Sometimes it is necessary to junction or splice wires in home wiring electrical boxes. 
When splicing wires, an accessible electrical junction box box is necessary to enclose the spliced wires, thus the trade name is electrical enclosure. 
This list shows various electrical boxes and displays the box name and describes the typical application. 

The most common type of materials that home wiring electrical boxes are made of are: plastic, fiberglass, steel, aluminum and bakealight. The metal boxes come with knock-outs for using conduit such as EMT (electrical metallic tubing) or flex - steel or aluminum.Why don't you see the exact same electrical box at your supplier? The availability of the types of boxes will depend upon which electrical manufacturer or purchasing channel your supplier has a contract with.

Boxes and Wire-Fill

How many wires can be installed into an electrical box will depend on how many Cubic Inches the box has and what size wires are being installed.