Monday, July 30, 2012

Tracing wires/ DIY....or hire a professional!

DIY works for many...but electrical issues often require a professional. When in doubt, consult with an electrician.....the consequences in guess work can COST more exponentially...

Tracing Wires

­If you need to find the wires inside your walls, you'll probably want a non-invasive way to look for them. After all, without a method to your madness, you'd just be hammering unsightly holes through your drywall in a vain attempt to cross paths with your wires. Instead, there's a better way: With the right tools and techniques, you can locate, or trace, your wiring without damaging your walls.
Tracing electrical wiring in walls can be tricky, and it involves more than just looking for the wires themselves. To figure out exactly where the wires are, you'll look f­or the outlets and appliances that each wire connects to. You'll also figure out which circuit breaker applies to which section of your home's wiring.
­You may be wondering why someone would go through all that trouble just to figure out the locations of wires. Knowing where your wires are can help you make repairs, plan for home improvement projects and even make your home safer. By knowing which outlets are on which circuits, you can decide where to plug in power-hungry appliances without overloading your electrical system. If one of your outlets is on the fritz and you don't have an electrical blueprint of your home to use as a reference, tracing the wiring can help you figure out exactly where the problem is. If you want to run new wires to a home theater system or other electronics, knowing your current wires' locations can help cut down on electrical interference, which can lower the quality of your picture and sound. And you'll definitely need to know where the wires are if you plan to do any renovation or demolition projects to your inside walls. Breaking into a live wire could damage your home and cause serious injury.

Best Practices for Tracing Electrical Wiring

­All-in-one wire tracers come with instructions that allow you to trace the wiring in your walls. You can also use stud-finders with wire-sensing modes to track down specific wires. But you can also get a good idea of where your wires are without such sophisticated devices. There's no one right way to do it. The method you choose simply depends on what your purpose is for tracing wires and what works best for you.
You can find out which wires are connected to which circuit breaker without any tools at all. If you have any kind of electrical wiring blueprint for the building you're testing, this is a decent method to use. If you already know where the wires run behind the walls, testing the circuit breakers simply verifies that the wires and switches are connected. Work with a partner -- one of you should stay at the breaker box to flip the switch, and the other should observe which outlets get power. You can do this without a partner as well, although running back and forth between outlets and breakers is time- and labor-intensive.
Start with all the breakers off, and plug a lamp -- turned on -- into an outlet. Flip breakers on and off one at a time until the lamp lights up. Then, plug the lamp into the other nearby outlets to determine which ones are on the same circuit. Flip light switches to see which circuit the lights are on. Circuits that run to large appliances, like clothes dryers, often have no other outlets or appliances on the circuit.
Another practice of finding electrical wires behind walls is to use a metal detector. This can be an efficient method if you know there are very few wires and if there aren't many other metal objects, like nails, in the walls.
If you're tracing electrical wiring so you can add new outlets or lighting, or if you're getting ready to make electrical repairs, you'll need your voltage detector and other tools for safety reasons

All Tech Electric & Contracting LLC: Lightning Protection

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Design Flaws- Poorly Lit and Underpowered


Design Flaws in Homes:
Poorly Lit and Underpowered

When asking one of the most acclaimed architects of the 20th century, Richard Meier, what he thinks is a common design flaw in the average home, he replied, "Too few houses take advantage of natural light" [source: Meier].

A Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) study found that "In a typical building, lighting accounts for 25 to 40 percent of energy consumption. In addition to its health and financial benefits, natural light also provides an almost 'perfect white light' that has a number of visual benefits" [source: ScienceDaily].

Buyers and sellers may rave about how many windows a property has, but even natural lighting has problems. Although the warmth from the sunlight streaming through all those windows may be welcome in winter, in summertime the windows may need to be covered to keep temperatures down. You also have to keep all those windows clean. And then there's the matter of privacy. Consider the placement of windows and perform draft and privacy checks at different times of day. Having a neighbor's window too near your bathroom or bedroom windows may be a little too close for comfort if you don't want to be seen or heard in private moments.

Most people don't want to live in a cave, but with some exceptions, they don't want to be overexposed either. If a space is in need of lots of artificial lighting, electric outlets and extension cords, or a large investment in window coverings, the overall design could be a problem.
 ·  ·  · about a minute ago · 

Home Electrical System

Your home's plumbing and electrical systems may seem as different as any two things could be. But there are significant parallels. Water enters your home through a pipe under pressure, and, when you turn on a tap, the water flows at a certain rate (gallons per minute). Electricity enters your home through wires, also under pressure (called voltage, measured in volts). When you turn on an electrical device, the electricity flows at a certain rate (current, measured in amperes, or amps).
electricity
A replacement receptacle must match the one you are removing. If you have the grounded type, you must buy a receptacle that has a ground terminal screw and slots for three-prong grounded plugs.
Unlike water, which is used as it comes from the tap, electricity is meant to do work: It is converted from energy to power, measured in watts. Since household electrical consumption is relatively high, the unit of measure most often used is the kilowatt, which is equal to 1,000 watts. The total amount of electrical energy you use in any period is measured in terms of kilowatt-hours (kwh).
The instrument that records how much electricity you use is called an electric meter. This meter tells the power company how much electricity they need to charge you for. There are two types of electric meters in general use. One type displays a row of small dials on its face with individual indicators. Each meter dial registers the kilowatt-hours of electrical energy. For example, if you leave a 100-watt bulb burning for 10 hours, the meter will register 1 kilowatt-hour (10x100 = 1,000 watt-hours, or 1 kwh). Each dial registers a certain number of kilowatt-hours of electrical energy. From right to left on most meter faces, the far right is the one that counts individual kilowatt-hours from 1 to 10; the next one counts the electricity from 10 to 100 kilowatt-hours; the third dial counts up to 1,000; the fourth counts up to 10,000; and the dial at the extreme left counts kilowatt-hours up to 100,000. If the arrow on a dial is between two numbers, the lower number should always be read

Saturday, July 28, 2012

All Tech Electric & Contracting LLC: Tips for new home owners

All Tech Electric & Contracting LLC: Tips for new home owners: http://www.kansas-electrcian.com     Browse Topic News, Warnings, Headlines & Seasonal Items Electrical Basics...New Homes, Add...

All Tech Electric & Contracting LLC: home Theatre - wiring/speakers

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All Tech Electric & Contracting LLC: Energy Savings- Lighting

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Electrical Safety

With the spate of electrical accidents that have recently occurred throughout the Midwest this past month, the news media has heightened the sense that consumers should always be aware of their safety.

While summertime activities can afford people the time to relax and offer new places to play, consumers still need to be diligent about safety hazards that can crop up in their surroundings, whether they are just hanging outside with friends and family, or while away from home on vacation.


  • Ensure that your pools and hot tubs are properly grounded to reduce the risk of electrical shock
  • Always inspect electrical cords on DS games, computers, and cell phones for fraying or exposed wiring before plugging into an electrical outlet
  • All major appliances in the home should be plugged directly in to an electrical outlet. NEVER use and extension cords to power these items
  • Do not overload outlets with multiple adapters or power strips
  • ALWAYS use caution around water and electricity
  • Make sure all wet areas of the home, both inside and out, are protected by GFCI outlets and test those outlet monthly
  • Know where fuse boxes and circuit breakers are located in your home and how to shut them off in case of emergency
  • Make sure you have smoke detectors on each floor in your home and check them regularly
  • NEVER attempt electrical repairs without proper certification or experience. ALWAYS hire a knowledgeable, reputable electrical company to do the work
  • Friday, July 27, 2012

    Hire an Electrician

    Faulty wiring is a fire waiting to happen. That's reason enough to hire an experienced electrician, but not the only one. Although wiring might seem like a black-and-white proposition—either the light goes on or it doesn't—it's actually a vast interdependent network. Circuits that are otherwise safe but poorly designed can damage appliance motors and electronic gear because they deliver the wrong amperage. Lights on even partially overloaded circuits can flicker when an appliance is in use, or the breaker may trip or the fuse might blow, shutting down the circuit entirely. Hiring an experienced electrician can help you avoid these problems.

    Thursday, July 26, 2012

    Kansas Electrician- Electrical outlets

    Location and Height of Electrical Outlets
    Again, codes dictate minimum heights off of the floor and maximum distances between outlets. However, I typically install outlets so that the bottom of the box is 16 inches off the floor. I also try to install outlet boxes near where I anticipate furniture to reside.
    Hire a professional- get it right the First time!
    Location of Electrical Switches
    When installing light switches carefully consider the locations of them. You don’t want them installed behind doors. You want them to be intuitively located when walking into the room. Usually you will want to place them within arm reach of the doorway at a height of 48 inches or so off of the floor.
    Also consider 3-way switches, which means you can turn the light off at two locations within the room. This is particularly helpful if there are two ways of egress from the room. Don’t forgo this type of switch, if your wiring your own home or room, just because it seems too complicated. You will regret your decision over an over. A 3-way switch is not too complicated. It just requires the right type of switches (two 3-way switches) and reading the wiring instructions in the 3-way switch packaging. You can also find instructions online

    Circuit Panel and Circuit Breakers

    Circuit Panel and Circuit Breakers
    The second most important maxim to remember when building a new home and installing your home’s electrical wiring is. “You can never have enough circuit breakers.” A Master Electrician will understand the needs and work specs/ requirements necessary. Permits can be obtained and work will be performed according to code requirements. Hiring a Master Electrician is your wisest investment.
    As our homes today become increasingly filled with home theater systems, multiple computers, fancier lighting systems, and other new age kitchen appliances, residential electricity demand continues to rise. Gone are the days when 100 Amp circuit panel is sufficient.
    This said, when meeting with your electrical contractor ask for a minimum of a 200 Amp circuit panel with 40 locations for circuit breakers. You may not initially need all of the circuit breaker locations, but over time you probably will. For example if you install a pool or build a home addition later on you will need additional circuit breakers.
    If you are unfamiliar with a circuit panel, it is where all of the wires in your home get tied into and connected to circuit breakers. These circuit breakers are fed by one large circuit breaker that connects your home to the local electric grid. Typically each circuit breaker is targeted towards a specific room within the home. In some cases there may be multiple circuit breakers for a room.
    There are national, state and local residential electrical wiring codes that specify the maximum number of outlets, switches and appliances that can be on a circuit breaker. Also, circuit breakers come in different shapes and sizes with different current rating capacities. The electrical codes also specify the current capacity of the circuit breaker for particular rooms. They also specify the types of rooms that need ground fault interrupt circuit breakers. For example, typically kitchens and bathrooms will require 20amp ground fault circuit breakers due to the number of appliances that are used in these rooms and the higher risk of electrical shock. Ground fault interrupt circuit breakers are designed to trip in the event an electrical appliance comes in contact with water, thus potentially saving your life.

    Wednesday, July 25, 2012

    Grid Energy Storage

    Importance of Grid Energy Storage on Ordinary Days

    On any ordinary day, electric power companies plan how much electricity to generate on the next day. They try to predict what customers will do, mainly by reading historical records of usage on the same day of the previous year. Then they adjust those figures to the current weather forecast for the following day.
    "It's impossible to exactly predict what the demand for power will be at a given moment," says John Boyes, who manages the Energy Storage Program at Sandia National Laboratories. This scenario sets utilities up to make more or less electricity than customers use. The mismatch sends ripples through the grid, including variations in AC frequency, which, if not controlled, can damage electronics. Regional electricity managers, or independent system operators (ISOs), swoop in and try to close the gap by asking some power plants to change how much electricity they generate. But nuclear and fossil fuel plants can't do that quickly. Their slowness worsens the mismatch between electricity supply and demand.
    Now, consider what happens on a sweltering day in Los Angeles when people citywide are running their air conditioners. These are peak demand conditions, when the most customers use the most electricity, which happens for a few hours on five to 10 days each year. On these days, facilities known as peaker plants are called into action. These expensive fossil-fuel plants sit idle all year and can emit more air pollution than a large coal-fired plant. "We wouldn't like to do it in a [smoggy] city like Los Angeles, but we do it anyway," says Imre Gyuk. If the peaker plants fall short, utilities pay large customers like aluminum smelters to use less electricity. "If nothing works, you have brownouts and rolling outages," says Gyuk.
    Meanwhile, old substations are overloading. They're carrying more current than they're meant to handle, and the metal structures heat. "That's not recommended practice," says Boyes.

    Tuesday, July 24, 2012

    Lighting- Glossary

    Enlightening Your Choice
    Light bulbs themselves may be quite simple in operation, but there is such a range of options out there that it can get quite bewildering at times. How many times have you found yourself staring up at the shelves in a store holding your shopping list (you probably wrote down �more light bulbs� or similar) and not knowing which ones to pick. Choice is a good thing, but when a sales assistant asks (a bit too loudly for your liking) if they can help, and you mumble, �I just want a light bulb,� it can also be embarrassing.
    So here is a helpful glossary of many of the common terms that you�ve seen in the lighting department but been a bit unsure about:
    • A-Lamps (Also known as General Service Bulbs)
      The standard incandescent bulb for most common uses.
    • Accent Lighting
      A type of lighting used to accentuate a given locality or object in the home or office, for example; a doorway or a painting.
    • ADA Brackets
      Fixtures for mounting on a wall that extend no more than 4 inches from the wall to comply with the Americans with Disabilities Act.
    • Adjustables
      Fixtures that can be adjusted or aimed for accent and directional lighting requirements.
    • Alternating-Current (AC)
      An electric current reversing its direction regularly at certain intervals.
    • Ambient Lighting
      Also can be referred to as general lighting. This is the all around, uniform illumination that lights up every home.
    • Amps/Amperes
      The unit used to measure electric current. The amount of current sent through one ohm by one volt. It comes from the name of M.Ampere who was a French scientist.
    • ANSI
      The American National Standards Institute. This is a consumer organization that develops many voluntary guidelines and standards for the electrical and other industry.
    • Aperture
      An opening or gap to allow the free passage of light.
    • Architectural Lighting
      A broad generic term for built-in light fixtures, such as valance lighting, or recessed lighting in ceilings, or in bookshelves or ledges high or low on walls.
    • Argon
      An inert gas from the Earth�s atmosphere that is used inside most light bulbs.
    • Average Rated Life
      The time expressed in hours that half of a given number of test lamps burnt out in. The lifespan of individual bulbs purchased will almost always be slightly above or below this time. (Also expressed as Lamp Life).
    • Baffle
      A part of a fixture used to prevent glare by absorbing or blocking any excess light.
    • Ballast
      A electrical apparatus used to provide current for the start up of HID and fluorescent lamps, and then control the current to regulate their operation.
    • Base
      That part of the light bulb which is placed inside the socket. (Usually these are screw in and made of either aluminum or brass). For HID bulbs they might be ceramic. For compact fluorescent they mostly have either two or four pins. The two pin versions are designed for preheat and have an internal starter. The four pin types (which are dimmable) do not and need a ballast to be used. Slimline fluorescents have only one pin at either end of the lamp. (See also Fluorescent and HID).
    • Beam Spread
      A measure of the angle of the light beam from a lamp with a reflector. This might be narrow spot, narrow flood, or wide flood.
    • Brass
      A metallic alloy made of zinc and copper. Fixtures can be made of this.
    • Bulb
      The commonly used term for an incandescent lamp.
    • Candela or Candlepower
      The unit of measurement of luminous intensity in any given direction from a source of light.
    • Candlepower Distribution
      A representation of how light is spread from a source, whether evenly throughout a curve, or not.
    • Canopy
      A part of a light fixture that conceals an outlet box.
    • Cans
      A term sometimes used to refer to recessed down lights.
    • Cathodes
      An electron emitting electrode. Used in fluorescent lighting systems. (See Fluorescent).
    • Channel
      A selection of fixtures that are jointly operated when using dimmers. Typically they would be of similar function or type. This can also be known as a zone.
    • Chromatics
      The branch of optical science that deals with color and the perception of color.
    • Circuit
      The chosen wiring route for an electric current to traverse.
    • Circuit Breaker
      A safety device that can be fitted to prevent too much current from flowing.
    • Clip
      An attachment that secures a shade to a light bulb.
    • Color Rendering Index (CRI)
      This is very important as it tells you how your light will render, or portray, the accurate color of everything it illuminates. The CRI runs from 1 (for Low Pressure Sodium lamps) to 100 (for the Sun). A CRI somewhere in the 80�s will give you good and true color portrayal.
    • Compact Fluorescent Lamp (CFL)
      These are small long living fluorescent lights that can be used as an alternative to incandescent bulbs. They can also be known as BIAX lamps. (See Fluorescent).
    • CCT (Correlated Color Temperature)
      This specifies the color that a given bulb itself appears when it is in use. (Whether it looks �hot� �warm� or �cold�). It is compared in degrees Kelvin (K), to a source of reference at a given temperature. (Not the color of the glass).
    • Crystal Glass
      Very fine quality glass like that used in chandeliers.
    • Current
      The flow of electricity, measured in amps.
    • Cut-off Angle
      The angle (measured from the vertical) whereat anything used to shield the light from direct view cuts-off that light source from the viewer.
    • Damp Location
      A UL listing (see UL) for fixtures that are used in locations where there is moisture present.
    • Decorative Bulbs (D)
      Attractive looking light bulbs that come in many assorted and unusual shapes.
    • Dichroic Coating
      A film that is used on reflector lamps to prevent as much heat being reflected as light. The thermal energy is instead transmitted through to behind allowing the light beam not to be so hot.
    • Diffuse Lighting
      Light which has been scattered or dispersed so as not to appear to be emanating wholly from its� source.
    • Diffuser
      Anything used for diffusing light. This might be a paper or fabric shade or etched or Opal (milky looking) glass on the light bulb.
    • Dimmer
      A control switch that reduces the illumination of a lamp by lessening the electricity available to it. These may be incremental, or full range with rotary or slide controls.
    • Direct Current (DC)
      An electric current that flows continuously in only one direction without any alterations.
    • Direct Lighting
      A form of lighting where a minimum of 90% of the light produced is cast in a downwards direction.
    • Directional Lighting
      See Adjustables.
    • Disability Glare
      A glare from a too bright light that results in a high discomfort that affects visibility levels considerably.
    • Discomfort Glare
      This glare is a lesser form of the above. Discomfort is produced but visibility is still kept to an acceptable level.
    • Downlights
      Small recessed lights in a ceiling.
    • Efficacy
      A guide to the efficiency of a light bulb expressed in lumens per watt (LPW). The higher the number, the more light given out for energy used.
    • Energy
      A gauge of how an electrical device works over time, usually shown as kwh (kilowatt hours). Which is 1000 watts used for 1 hour.
    • Etched Glass
      Glass (on a light bulb) treated with acid for the purpose of diffusion. (See diffusion).
    • Extended Life Lamp
      Light bulb with an average rated life of 2500+ hours. (See Average Rated Life).
    • Eyeball
      An adjustable light that is fitted into the ceiling.
    • Filament
      A wire coil made of tungsten that produces light when heated by an electric current.
    • Fill Gas
      The gas inside the light bulb. For incandescent lamps this is usually argon or krypton with sometimes added nitrogen. Halogen is used in addition to this in halogen bulbs.
    • Flood
      The very wide light dispersal from a reflector bulb. FL can be used as an abbreviation.
    • Fluorescent
      A lighting system which works by creating electric arcs inside a gas rich tube to produce ultraviolet light, then converting this to visible light by its passage through a layer of phosphor on the inside of the glass.
    • Foot-Candle
      This is the common measurement of luminance (level of light) used in the United States. One foot-candle is one lumen on one square-foot of a surface. (See also Lumen and Lux).
    • Frosted Glass
      Glass used for light bulbs that has been roughened or treated with a spray on coating (See IF), for the purpose of diffusing light. (See Diffusion).
    • Full Spectrum
      Light bulbs with this designation accurately imitate natural light and are thought by some to be beneficial to health by reducing stress, depression and headaches, amongst other things.
    • G-Lamp
      Globular shaped light bulbs.
    • General Lighting
      See Ambient Lighting.
    • Gimbal Lighting
      The adjustable ring holding a PAR or MR bulb in place. (See also MR and PAR).
    • Glare
      An excessively bright light that causes discomfort and vision impairment. May be direct or indirect (from a reflection).
    • Gloss
      A glossy finish is a shiny, reflective finish.
    • Halogen Lamp
      A type of bulb which contains halogen gases, usually iodine, or chlorine, bromine, or fluorine, to extend the life of the tungsten filament through a recycling system know as the halogen cycle. They are also made of quartz glass, or �hard glass� because they have to be hotter to work properly. Halogen bulbs are brighter and produce more lumens per watt (LPW). (See Efficacy and Quartz Lamp).
    • Hard-Back
      A lamp shade with a plastic lining.
    • Heat Ratings
      A safety guide for surface mounted fixtures, which limits the wattage of the bulb to be used.
    • HID (High Intensity Discharge) Lamps
      A group of type of lamps that include mercury vapor, high pressure sodium, low pressure sodium and metal halide. They are long lasting and energy efficient.
    • IC Fixture
      Insulated Ceiling Fixture. A fixture that can be directly placed in thermal insulation.
    • IF
      This stands for Inside Frosted. (See Frosted Glass).
    • In-Ground Up Lights
      These are outdoor lights recessed in the ground (for the garden path, or patio, etc.) They can be low-voltage or solar powered.
    • Incandescent Lamp
      A light bulb which uses incandescence to produce light. (See below).
    • Incandescence
      Light produced by the electrical heating of a material.
    • Indirect Lighting
      A form of lighting where a minimum of 90% of emitted light is cast upwards.
    • Infrared (IR)
      An invisible radiation with very long wavelengths which is produced by light bulbs as well as visible radiation (light).
    • Instant Start
      A fluorescent light which can power up immediately without the need to pre-heat the cathodes or use starters. (See Cathodes, Fluorescent and Starters).
    • Integrated Dimming System
      An advanced dimmer that remembers pre-set lighting �themes�, and can re-create them by the use of a button on a wall box or remote control.
    • IR Lamp
      Infrared Reflecting Halogen Lamp. A special type of halogen lamp which directs excess IR energy on the filament, so as to heat it further without extra use of power. (See also Infrared and filament).
    • Jack
      Plug in attachment found in low voltage light fixtures. (See Low Voltage Fixtures).
    • Kelvin
      An advanced unit of temperature used by scientists. (See CCT).
    • Krypton
      A gas sometimes used in premium bulbs instead of argon.
    • Lacquer
      A clear or colored coat that prevents metal from tarnish and rust.
    • Lamp (Electric)
      A source of man-made or artificial light. The whole of the light bulb.
    • Lamp Holder
      A socket to secure the lamp and connect it to an electric current.
    • Lamp Life
      See Average Rated Life.
    • LCL (Light Center Length)
      The length, usually in inches, from a given point on the base of a lamp to its light center.
    • Light Distribution
      The pattern of light in a room.
    • Light Fixture
      A complete lighting unit containing a lamp, reflector, housing and a connection, a socket and baffles. Also known as a Luminaire.
    • LLF (Light Loss Factor)
      A factor used to calculate the illumination after a certain time according to whatever conditions are present. (Like varying temperature, fluctuating voltage, atmospherics, dust buildup, and maintenance procedure, if any). This used to be referred to as the Maintenance Factor.
    • Line Voltage
      In the U.S.A, this should be 120 volts. (See Volts).
    • Louvers
      A screen of numerous baffles. (See Baffles).
    • Low Voltage
      Lamps that use 6, 12, or 24 volts instead of 120, and require a transformer connected between them and the standard 120 volt power source.
    • Lumens (LM)
      The actual quantity of light produced by a lamp or other source. From the Latin word �lumen� which means �light�. Correctly known as luminous flux. (See Luminous Flux).
    • Luminaire
      A complete light fixture. (See Light Fixture).
    • Luminaire Efficiency
      This is a ratio of light produced by the luminaire as a whole, including whatever shades, baffles and or reflectors that may be fitted, compared to the light produced by the fitted lamp or bulb alone.
    • Luminance
      Reflected light sent in a given direction. The observation of brightness expressed in the measuring unit of light intensity, candelas. (See Candela, Candlepower).
    • Luminance Contrast
      How a given object stands out (or not) from its background due to available light.
    • Luminance Ratio
      A comparison between two or more areas within the viewer�s field of vision.
    • Luminous Flux
      The amount of light flowing over a given area in a period of time. (See Lumens).
    • Lux
      The international standard unit for measuring light levels (as oppose to Foot-Candle in the U.S.A). It is one lumen per square meter. (See Lumens and Foot-Candle).
    • Matte
      A low reflecting dull finish to reduce brightness and glare.
    • Mogul Base
      A lamp base used for high-wattage bulbs. (See Watts).
    • MOL (Maximum Overall Length)
      The entire length of a lamp usually in inches (for the U.S.A). Can be in centimeters.
    • MR Lamp
      A Multi-facet Reflector lamp.
    • National Electric Code (NEC)
      A standard for safe and proper wiring and electrical appliances to be used as a guide for local jurisdictions in disputes.
    • NEMA (National Electrical Manufacturers Association)
      An organization for promoting harmony and agreement within the industry, and deciding on the designation of new products.
    • Neodymium
      A metal used in the production of full spectrum bulbs. (See Full Spectrum).
    • Neon Lamp
      Culturally famous high voltage, low pressure bulbs used in outdoor signage.
    • Nominal Watts
      The power rating of light bulbs and other lamps. (See Watts).
    • Opal Glass
      A milky looking glass used to diffuse light. (See Diffuse Lighting).
    • Opaque
      Any material through which light does not penetrate.
    • Over Voltage
      It will shorten the operating life of a bulb to use it above its proper voltage. (See Volts).
    • PAR Lamps
      This stands for Parabolic Aluminized Reflector. These are extremely bright bulbs that can be used for the accurate controlling of light levels. Since the parabola shaped reflector is excellent at reflecting and focusing all the light produced in a beam in a chosen direction.
    • Pendant Lights
      These are suspended from the ceiling and regularly seen in many homes.
    • Power Factor
      This is a measure of efficiency of electrical devices.
    • Prism
      This refracts light, or bends it. A light beam enters through one of the prisms� multiple, see-through straight sides, and leaves via another. (Light is sent off in different directions). It is not a reflector because the light changes direction inside the prism, rather than bouncing off the outside surface. (See Reflector).
    • Quality Of Lighting
      Simply; a term used for matching the type of lamps chosen for the task required.
    • Quartz Lamp
      A halogen bulb with glass made of quartz. This should never be touched with bare skin as an oily mark will appear that will cause the structure to weaken. If touched, clean the glass with an alcohol such as methylated spirits or a turpentine.
    • R Lamp or Reflector Lamps
      Reflector lamp are made of �soft� glass as oppose to the �hard� glass of a PAR lamp. This distinction concerns the glass structure and ability to deal with higher temperatures. They also differ in usually having their reflector source as a aluminum or silvery coating on the bulb itself.
    • Rated Lamp Life
      See Average Rated Life.
    • Recessed Fixture
      A light fixture mounted into the ceiling.
    • Recessed Lighting
      Here the fixture is installed above the ceiling, with only an opening for the light visible from below.
    • Reflectance
      The amount of light in percentage reflected by a given surface. (The rest of the light is either absorbed by the material, or transmitted through it).
    • Reflector
      A device for reflecting light in a chosen direction from its surface. Depending on the brightness desired, these may be either diffuse, glossy, matte, or specular. (See Diffused Lighting, Gloss, Matte and Specular).
    • Relamping
      A maintenance project either at work or home to clean all light fixtures and replace bulbs with new ones.
    • Rough Service Lamp
      Incandescent light bulbs with extra support to the filament for better withstanding shaking and vibrations.
    • Satin Finish
      A lightly textured �brushed� finish to metal or glass.
    • Scalloped
      The fan or shell shaped pattern on some fixtures.
    • Scene
      Pre-set settings for dimmers. (See Dimmer).
    • Sconce
      A wall mounted fixture in the shape of a candelabra. Popular for use with decorative bulbs as they are exposed (to allow them to be admired).
    • Shade
      An opaque or translucent covering to lessen the light from a bulb when viewed from certain angles, and redirect it to others. (See Opaque and Translucent).
    • Shade Measurement
      Always should be in this order:
      - Across at the top
      - Across at the bottom
      - The slanting of the sides
      - The height
    • Shielding
      A group term for diffusers, baffles, louvers and shades.
    • Soft Shade (Also known as a Lined Shade)
      A lamp shade that has a liner of a fabric.
    • Solid Brass
      These are fixtures that are made of brass only, not a simulation or brass-plate. Some confusion exists here as the fixtures are probably hollow and not solid at all! The word �solid� applies only to the brass itself. This comes from an old expression which referred to something as being �solid�, when it was honest and trustworthy. So in this case, meaning; it is what it says it is - brass!
    • SPD (Spectral Power Distribution)
      An illustration of how the power output of a given bulb changes in each different wavelength across the spectrum.
    • Specular
      A finish to a surface that is highly polished and mirror-like.
    • Spider
      The name of the cross frame by the top of a lamp shade.
    • Spot Lamp
      A reflectorized bulb with a narrow beam of light emitted.
    • Starters
      An electrical mechanism used together with a ballast for starting a fluorescent or HID lamp. (See Ballast, Fluorescent and HID).
    • Step Lights
      These are lights recessed into a wall along a pathway or into stairs on a stairwell.
    • Surface Mounted
      This is another term for ceiling mounted light fixtures.
    • Swing Arm
      A horizontal arm for the multiple positioning of a wall mounted or table light.
    • Switch Leg
      This is how the wiring between a light fixture and its control or dimmer switch is known.
    • T-Lamps
      A lamp that is tubular in shape.
    • Task Lighting
      Lighting that is designed for a specific task. Examples of this are security lighting, which has to be extra bright and reliable, and sometimes comes with an infrared sensor or motion detector attached. Or another example being a reading light, which should be bright enough to prevent eyestrain but not too glary, to avoid the user from having to squint.
    • Three-Way Lamp
      An incandescent light bulb with two filaments inside it for three levels of light from a sequential switch. The smaller filament is used for the low light level, the larger for the medium setting, and both are used simultaneously when the switch is set to high.
    • Three-Way Switch
      Sometimes also known as a �three-pole switch� this is a system that operates a light fixture from two separate locations. This could be the top and bottom of a stairway for example, or next to the bed and the door in the bedroom.
    • Tilt
      The angle of inclination in an upwards direction of a source of light from the horizontal level starting position.
    • Timer
      A gadget that will turn lights on or off at pre-set times. Either through its own clock or a countdown.
    • Tinted Glass
      Glass that had a color (any color) pigment added during manufacture rather than being applied after the glass had cooled from its molten state.
    • Toggle
      A common control switch for electric lamps.
    • Torchiere
      A lamp for the floor that sends almost all its emitted light upwards. (See Indirect Lighting).
    • Translucent
      A translucent material allows some light that hits it to pass through and emerge from the other side.
    • Transmission
      The passage of light through an object.
    • Transparent
      A transparent material allows all light that strikes it to pass through it and emerge from the other side.
    • Types (Of Bulb)
      The designation used for bulbs is that of a letter or letters to indicate the shape, and then a number to show the size. In the United States, light bulbs are measured in eighths of an inch around their maximum diameter.
    • UL (Underwriters Laboratory)
      A wholly independent organization that apply strict tests to electrical manufacturer�s products. When and if they pass these tests, the makers can designate them as �UL Listed�.
    • U-Lamp
      A fluorescent lamp with two ends that is shaped like the letter �u�.
    • Utility Lighting
      Often partly made from plastic these are basic and durable unadorned fixtures for everyday usage.
    • Urn
      A wall bracket fixture shaped liked an urn for sending light upwards.
    • Valance Lighting
      This is where the fixture or fixtures are installed behind a horizontal shielding running along a wall or above a window. It is a form of Architectural Lighting.
    • Vanity Lighting
      A light fixture installed above or alongside a mirror.
    • Vapor-Tight Luminaire
      A light fixture that is resistant to entry by vapors or gases to its chamber. Often this applies to water vapor that as steam might cause problems in a kitchen or bathroom.
    • Volts
      The unit of electrical force or pressure that creates current. Named after Alessandro Volta, an Italian scientist who invented the electric battery in 1800.
    • Voltage Drop
      This is the difference in current along a circuit caused by the resistance of the lights and the wire. When using low voltage wiring it can cause lights at the far end from the transformer to be noticeably dimmer than the ones nearer.
    • Wall Brackets
      Light fixtures designed for vertical surfaces such as walls. They are also referred to as Wall Mount Fixtures.
    • Wall Grazing
      A method of lighting where light is aimed down a wall to produce dramatic shadowing.
    • Wall Lighting
      A lighting method where light is �bounced� off walls to give the appearance of more spacious rooms.
    • Wall Washing
      A technique used to bathe a wall in light to give it added emphasis.
    • Watts
      A unit of electrical power. Named after James Watt, a British inventor. 746 watts = 1 horsepower.
    • Wattage
      The amount of electricity used by a light bulb to produce light.
    • Xenon
      A rare gas used in specialized lamps.
    • Yard Lighting
      A general term used for outdoor and garden light fixtures.

    CFL or LED / lighting

    Use CFL or LED lights.


    You have two choices to replace your old-school, energy-guzzling lights: LED or CFL. They're both good choices, produce very good light, are direct screw-in replacements for your current bulbs, and save tons of energy. So there's no need to obsess over which one to choose. LED is generally better but the current cost is still high—$18 for an LED bulb vs. $3 for a CFL. You'll make up the extra cost for the LED from the energy it saves, but if you can't stomach the up-front cost, just go with CFL. Either way, the calculator at right shows you how much you can save.
    If you've heard the scare-mongering about mercury in CFLs, relax. The median exposure for a broken CFL is 0.07 mcg, while six ounces of Albacore tuna has 48 mcg—700 times as much. See this paper by LBL scientists for more.) And of course, you can always use a CFL that has a plastic cover, or use an LED light.

    Here's a table showing the difference between the different kind of light bulbs:
    Incandescent vs. CFL vs. LED

    Incandescent CFL LED
    Cost
    Cost over 25,000 hours (bulbs + electricity) $317 $78 $65
    Cost for one 60-watt equivalent bulb $1 $3 $18
    Cost over 25,000 hours (bulbs only) $17 $15 $18
    Cost over 25,000 hours (electricity only) $300 $63 $47
    Life
    Life (in hours) 1500 5000 25,000
    Life reduced by cycling on/off A wee bit A little bit Not at all
    Light output over its life Constant ~70% of initial brightness
    by end of life (30% drop)
    Applications
    Dimmable All models Some models
    Can be used in enclosed fixtures All models Som models Never
    Good in freezing temperatures All models Rare models All models
    Characteristics
    Light quality Excellent Excellent Excellent
    Time needed to get fully bright Instant ~1 minute
    (some models are instant)
    Instant
    Heat generated (source, source 2) A lot A little A lot
    Toxic mercury No Barely No
    How breakable Fragile Fragile Strong
    Watts for 1600 lumens 100 25 16

    BBB

    We are officially members of BBB. Thank you to everyone for helping us create a successful business!

    Home Safety Checklist

    Home Safety Checklist

    Make your family safer, step-by-step

    • Sound the Alarm: Install smoke detectors on every floor of your home and carbon monoxide detectors near sleeping areas. If already installed, test them! Tip: Replace the batteries every daylight-saving time change.
    • Avoid Overload: Check for overloaded extension cords – usage should not exceed the recommended wattage.
    • Don’t Get Tippy: If young children are in the home, bookshelves and other furniture should be firmly secured with wall brackets to prevent tipping.
    • Paint Safe: Check walls for loose paint. If re-painting, do so in a well-ventilated area and consider VOC-free paint.
    • Childproof, Childproof, Childproof: Check your local library or online for complete lists of childproofing suggestions and see our Virtual Home Safety Tour for more ideas. Areas of particular danger include outlets, appliances, electronics, stairs and windows.
    • Cover Outlets: Cover all unused outlets to prevent children from sticking a finger in the socket.
    • Watch Cord Placement: Extension cords should not be placed under rugs or heavy furniture, tacked up or coiled while in use.
    • Get Grounded: All major appliances should be grounded. Be sure to check your ground fault circuit interrupters regularly.
    • Plan Your Escape: Practice a fire escape plan with your family where you identify two exits for every room and what to do with young children.
    • Give Your Air Heater Some Space: All air heaters should be placed at least three feet from beds, curtains or anything flammable.
    • Keep Extinguishers Handy: Place all-purpose fire extinguishers in key locations in your home – the kitchen, bedroom and basement. Be sure to check expiration dates regularly and know how to use them safely.
    • Create a Safe Exit: In addition to alarms and extinguishers, consider an escape ladder if your home has two floors. Keep emergency numbers and contacts readily available by the phone.
    • Unplug Appliances: Unplug appliances and electronics when not in use and store them out of reach.
    • Go New in the Nursery: Check that all painted cribs, bassinettes and high chairs were made after 1978 to avoid potential lead paint poisoning.
    • Cool Your Jets: Set your water heater below 120 degrees Fahrenheit to avoid potential burns and to save energy.
    • Put Away Medications: Take medications and medical supplies out of your purse, pockets and drawers, and put them in a cabinet with a child safety lock.
    • Look for UL: The UL Mark appears on products that have been tested, verified and inspected for safety. Make sure to look for it to keep your holidays safe and bright.

    10 Easy Ways to Go Green

    10 Easy Ways to Go Green

    Clean Green
    Make your own non-toxic, affordable cleaning supplies out everyday items such as vinegar and baking soda.
    Know Your CO
    Carbon Monoxide alarms should be installed near all sleeping areas, on each level of the house and 15-20 feet from the furnace.
    Paint Lead-Free
    Use only lead-free, non-toxic paint throughout your home, especially in children’s rooms.
    Test Your Tap
    Your local health department can provide information about the purity and safety of your drinking water. If your tap water fails a lead test, invest in a filter or use bottled water for drinking and cooking.
    Be Stingy with Water
    Turn off the water when you’re not using it and put a low-flow cap on your sink faucet.
    Breathe Well Indoors
    Prevent mold growth with good ventilation and use low-VOC paints and furnishings. Check that appliances and any fireplace or woodstove is properly vented to the outside of your home.
    Light Up with LED’s
    Light-emitting diodes (LEDs) use less energy, generate less heat and last longer than other bulbs.
    Waste Not
    Find creative new ways to reuse old glass jars, bottles, and grocery bags. Check the bottom of all plastics before throwing them away and recycle as much as possible.
    Switch “Off”
    Save electricity and reduce environmental impact by turning off lights when you leave a room, and using only as much light as you need.
    Control Your Mercury Intake
    For pregnant moms and children, Mercury ingested through fish can pose a significant health risk. The Environmental Protection Agency recommends these groups do not eat shark, swordfish, king mackerel or tilefish because they contain high levels of mercury.

    CFL Bulbs

    CFL's are a great way to save a little on your energy bill. CFL's are slower to brighten up than incandescents. They cost a little more initially, but the savings should more than pay for that. Bulb life is much greater than the incandescent bulb, but the compact has dangerous mercury in it.

    Pros

    • One of the simplest way to save money and energy.
    • The cost of these bulbs have gone down dramatically since 1999.
    • These fluorescent bulbs last around 8,000 hours, compared to incandescents that last 1,000 hours.
    • You get 60 watts of light for 13 watts of power used.
    • Each bulb can save you $37.00 in energy savings over the life of the bulb.

    Cons

    • Compact fluorescent lighting contains mercury. If one breaks, leave the room immediately!
    • Disposing of these bulbs may be a little tricky.
    • These bulbs tout that they will last seven years, but that is based on three hours of use a day.
    • CFL's take a few seconds to reach full brightness, so they are not for every application.

    Description

    • Initial Cost Higher
    • Same Wattage of Light For Less Wattage of Energy Use
    • Saves Up To $37.00 Per Life of Each Bulb
    • Slower Full Brightness Time
    • Contains Mercury
    • Hard To Dispose of

    Guide Review - Compact Fluorescent Light Bulbs

    In areas where light is needed immediately, CFL's may take too long to reach full brightness. The style takes a little getting used to, but the light it emits is just fine. Getting 60 watts of light for only 13 watts of power is a plus in my book. By using these bulbs in my home, I've shaved about $35.00 off of my electric bill. This is close to what they estimate the average homeowner will save. It all depends on how many lights are used in a home and for how long. The initial cost will range from $2.00 to $3.00 for each bulb, depending on the size and manufacturer. With a life expectancy of eight times the 60 watt incandescent bulb, the cost would actually be cheaper to buy the CFL.
    Be very careful with these bulbs! They do contain mercury and can be very dangerous if broken. Read all warning labels and know what to do if this happens before installing one. I have had a few burn out within the first two months, but they are in my ceiling fan. This could be due to vibration from the fan. All in all, I'd have to say I've been happy with the bulbs so far.

    Wednesday, July 18, 2012

    Electrical...ALWAYS Hire A Professional

    Electricity is Nothing to Mess With


    Protect Yourself
    With the Internet replacing traditional TV, radio, and CB systems, consumers may be taking out their ladders and taking down their old antennas. If proper precautions are not used, the result can be deadly. In recognition, The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) is reminding consumers of the serious electrocution hazard when ladders or antennas touch high-voltage, overhead power lines.

    CPSC data shows that between 1990 and 1998, more than 300 people in the U.S. were electrocuted when an antenna or pole they were holding touched a high-voltage power line. During this same timeframe, CPSC is aware of nearly 150 electrocution deaths due to ladders coming into contact with an electrical line. Overall, CPSC estimates there are about 200 consumer product-related electrocution deaths each year, which is down from about 600 deaths per year in the 1970s.

    "CPSC believes that there are still many electrocution deaths that could be prevented. Consumers should never place a ladder, antenna, or anything else near a power line," stated CPSC Acting Chairman Thomas Moore. "Consumers who come in contact with an overhead power line may not live to share their experience."

    In 1978, the Commission set a standard calling for the industry to properly label antennas with safety warnings about the risk from power lines. This was followed by a standard in 1982 requiring antennas for citizen's band communications to be insulated, thus reducing the risk of shock from contact with power lines. These standards helped dramatically reduce the 186 deaths per year that occurred in the mid- 1970s from antenna electrocutions to 20 per year in the 1990s. Now, consumers are taking down older, uninsulated antennas, which could lead to more electrocutions.

    When participating in outdoor, overhead activities, consumers should take the following precautions:
    • Keep all objects - including masts, poles, ladders, tools and toys - far away from power lines at all times.
    • If you are taking down or moving an antenna, be aware of new power lines that have been put up since the antenna was first installed.
    • Never assume that an overhead power line is electrically insulated; always assume that contact with any line can be lethal.
    • Never place a ladder anywhere near an electrical power line.
    • Position non-metal ladders (such as fiberglass) at a height and location that prevents the possibility of you or it contacting a power line.
    • Keep the distance from an antenna or pole to the power line at least 11/2 times the height of the antenna or pole.
    • Properly ground all masts in accordance with electrical codes.
    • Be aware that you can be electrocuted by touching a power line directly or by touching a conductive material (such as a metal ladder, antenna, pipe, kite) and, at the same time, the earth or any grounded item (such as metal siding or a downspout).
    • Keep away from all downed power lines. A power line that touches the ground can shock or kill you even if you do not touch it. The electrical current can travel through the ground and into your body.

    Circuits Wiring Receptacles

    Circuits/Wiring

    What's happens when I flick the light switch?
    When you think of the electrical wiring system of a house, you might know it consists of wires and circuits. These wires and circuits provide a 360-degree delivery of electricity from the main electrical panel to an outlet, or series of outlets that service appliances, and then flows back to the panel. The electric circuits in a standard house electrical wiring system in the United States is generally comprised of 120-volts or 240-volts.
    House electrical wiring in the United States is governed by the National Electrical Code (NEC), which is published by the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA 70). As an example, the current code dictates that three-pronged, polarized receptacles are to be used in all new home construction, in addition to, outlining the use of ground fault interrupters (GFI) in locations where an electrical appliance may be subjected to moisture.
    The standard household electrical outlet consists of two three-pronged, polarized receptacles. Each receptacle has a 120-volt ‘hot’ wire, a neutral wire and a ground. This dual design allows the use of either hot wire to supply the standard 120-volt household circuits. For higher power applications like clothes dryers, electric ranges and air conditioners, a single receptacle is used where two of the prongs are a hot wire and the third a neutral, which can be used to produce a 240-volt circuit.
    The two receptacles in a common outlet receive power from the same circuit leading from the main electrical supply panel. They are wired together so that two appliances which are plugged into the receptacle receive the same voltage, but can draw different amounts of electric current. This parallel wiring is the standard for 120-volt circuits in the entire house, making possible the independent use of all appliances, supplied by the same voltage.
    The wider prong on the polarized plug will permit it to be plugged in only with the correct polarity. The narrower prong is the ‘hot’ lead and the switch to the appliance is placed in that lead, guaranteeing that no voltage will reach the appliance when it is switched off.
    Interruptions in circuit wiring are not only an inconvenience, but also present fire hazards. The Consumer Product Safety Commission estimates that 50 people die every year from accidental electrocutions involving residential wiring, panel boards, circuit breakers, and outlets. Another 40 electrocutions each year involve household appliances that are connected to the wiring of homes.
    By making sure you have a thorough electrical inspection completed by a qualified  electrician before buying, selling or remodeling a home, you can help ensure your home's electrical system operates at the highest level of safety possible. Our trained technicians can provide whole house re-wiring and evaluation of your circuits to ensure the safe delivery of electrical current within your home.

    Tuesday, July 17, 2012

    Outdoor lighting- Kansas Electrician

    Great outdoor lighting ideas...just a few, keep the imagination rolling- there are ENDLESS selections
    Always have a Master Electrician install your outdoor lighting- be safe, be smart!
    www.kansas-electrician.com 913-963-1116



    From the album: Wall Photos
    By Kansas Electrician
    Most ceiling fans can be used in two different ways; that is, most fans have a mechanism, commonly an electrical switch, for reversing the direction in which the blades rotate.



    Even though most ceiling fans can be mounted to all types of ceilings, not all can be mounted to angled or cathedral ceiling without an added bracket or use of a down-rod...

    ceiling fans- kansas Electrician

    more ceiling fans...the possibilities are endless. Like a style but not the color? We can help you with that. Special designs, unique colors, faux finishes....

    Exterior Lighting Kansas Electrician

    Exterior Lighting
    One of the most common choices in exterior illumination for homeowners is outdoor security lighting. Keeping an area well lit during the hours of night goes a long way as a deterrent to help keep intruders and burglars away. Brightness and responsiveness are two of the most important characteristics to look for in outdoor security lights. The more illuminant a fixture is, the farther its light will carry. More focused illumination is important as well, so that the light does not “get lost” in the vast darkness of night.
    The biggest consideration to remember when choosing outdoor security lighting is to select something that is going to make you feel safer in your home. Brightness and motion sensors are definitely two characteristics to consider, but be sure that you choose outdoor security lights that will provide you with a feeling of safety and comfort for you and your family during the nighttime hours.
    Another choice for exterior lighting is decorative, used to illuminate walkways, plants, shrubs and trees and provide ambience to a yard. Some of the exterior lighting solutions we offer include; flood lights, security lighting, post lights, porch and coach lighting.

    Monday, July 16, 2012

    Sub Panel Kansas Electrician

    What is a Sub Panel?
    In essence, an electrical sub panel can be thought of as a mini service panel. Its basic structure is the same as a service panel, with a main feeder wire leading into bus bars and circuit breakers. Branch wire circuits lead off of the circuit breakers into various parts of the house.
    A typical amperage and voltage for a sub-panel might be 30 amp., 240 volts.
    Note: a circuit breaker sub panel does not provide additional electricity to the house; it is feeding off of the main electrical panel.
    There are 2 major reasons why you might want to install a circuit breaker sub panel:
    First, if the main service panel does not have enough space to hold circuit breakers for any new circuits that you intend to install. The circuit breaker sub panel can, in a sense, create new space for circuit breakers, but in a physically separate location.
    Secondly, the sub panel provides a sense of clarity and separation of service from the main electrical panel. Usually, a circuit breaker sub panel will service one separate area that has a discrete function, such as a kitchen, shop, office, or addition. By installing a circuit breaker sub panel, you make it clear which circuit breakers and branch circuits apply to which parts of the house. It is easy to segregate the duties of all of the branch circuits, and to facilitate sub panel repairs, by keeping the circuits sequestered within the circuit breaker sub panel area.

    Main Electrical Panel

    What is a Main Electrical Panel?
    As you add electrical appliances and circuits, you increase the demand on your power panel. Depending on when your home was built and how much electricity you use, your power panel may need to be replaced or a sub-panel added to keep up with demand.
    All of the power for your home comes through this panel from the utility company, to the exit wires that split off and service different parts of the house. These exit wires are called branch circuits or branch wire circuits. Service wire lugs connect the power from the utility through the electric meter to the electrical panel, and are highly dangerous points that should never be touched. The main electrical panel is the central distribution point for all branch circuits of the house.
    Branch circuits are connected to the service panel via circuit breakers. The circuit breakers have no purpose other than safety, since they immediately cut off electricity to branch circuits in the event of overload. You can access these circuit breakers and turn them on and off to restrict power to a particular circuit in your home.
    The service wire lugs connect the power from the utility to your home and contain intense, concentrated power. It is impossible to turn off the power to the service wire lugs. Main service is continually on, except in the event of an overall power failure, or if you make a special request with the utility company to shut off power from the street.
    Unlike branch wire circuits, which are just a portion of the entire electrical service to the house, the service wire lugs represent every single amount of electricity coming into the house. If your home has a screw-in fuse panel, an obsolete panel, or even worse, has lost its UL listing due to a faulty main breaker or circuit breaker—you may have to consider a new electrical panel for your home. Installing a new electrical panel in your home will increase your safety and peace of mind knowing that the heart of your electrical system is working properly for you and your home.
    Components of main electrical panels include; the housing unit, panel door, circuit breakers, hot bus bars, neutral bar, ground wire and a ground bar. Changing out or upgrading your electrical service is a job for an experienced electrician.

    Sunday, July 15, 2012

    Residential Electrican- Leawood, Overland Park, Olathe, surrounding KCMO

    Residential
    All Tech Electric & Contracting LLC provides a wide variety of electrical services including locating and repairing any electrical problem, remodels, upgrades, installations, repairs, maintenance and code compliance with a well-equipped fleet of fully-stocked service trucks. We are happy to work on jobs of all sizes. If you have any questions regarding what we can do for you, give Larry Madura a call at 913-963-1116.
    Residential services include: Troubleshooting; fault locating in walls, ceilings and underground; light fixture and paddle fan installations; lighting upgrades; solar power installations; overhead and underground meter main services; panel upgrades; spa, stove, air conditioning, large and small appliance power; emergency standby generators; circuit breakers, outlets, switches, smoke detectors, phone, data, and much more.
    Our  Services include all of the above mentioned items as well as: Underground distribution, relocation and rebuilding of meter pedestals, distribution transformers, aluminum wiring repairs.
    Service is provided on a time and material or fixed price basis. Our hourly rate is competitive and fair and no additional service charges are added just for showing up

    Electrical wire Markings

    Electrical Wire Markings
    Electrical wires have markings stamped or printed on the outside sheath of the cable. These markings tell what type and size of wire that you have. But looking deeper, the color of the wires inside of the sheath, like in type NM cable, will reveal that different color wires serve different purposes.
    Black Wires
    Black wires are always used for hot wires. These wires may feed a switch or outlet and are often used as switch legs. Never used a black wire for a neutral or ground connection.
    Red Wires
    Red wires are also used for hot wires, switch legs (like to a ceiling fan), and are the second hot wire in 220-volt installations. Another useful application is the interconnect wire between two hardwired smoke detectors.
    Blue and Yellow Wires
    Blue and yellow wires are used as hot wires. These wires are usually pulled in conduit. The blue wires are generally used for travelers in three-way and four-way switch applications. They also are used as switch legs to things like lights and fans. Yellow wires are generally used for switch legs. These control things like light, fans, and switched outlets.
    Green and Bare Copper Wires
    Green wires and bare copper wires are used only for grounding. These wires will ground devices and shall be bonded to junction boxes and appliance connections for safety.
    Wire Color Exceptions
    In certain instances, wire colors may be used for connections that don't follow these general rules. For instance, a white wire in a two-conductor cable may be used for the second hot wire on a 240-volt appliance or outlet connection. Another application is using the white wire for a switch leg for lighting or running a three-way switch application. This white wire should be properly marked to show that it is being used for something other than a neutral. Simply mark the end of the wire with black or red electrical tape. That way, no one will be confused and accidentally use it for something else.

    Proper connections for electricial service

    Electrical Service Wiring:
    Service Entrance PoleTimothy Thiele

    Making the proper connections to the electrical service components will help keep the electricity flowing trouble-free. Before trying to wire an electric meter, disconnect, electrical panel, or sub-panel, be sure you know where to place the wires on each. Here's a look at just a few that will help you keep your wiring projects safe and functional for years to come.

    Design and installation conventions for residential wiring

    Design and installation conventions
    For residential wiring, some basic rules given in the NEC are:
    • Phase wire in a circuit may be black, red, orange (high leg delta) insulated wire, sometimes other colors, but never green, gray, or white (whether these are solid colors or stripes). Specific exceptions apply, such as a cable running to a switch and back (known as a traveler) where the white wire will be the hot wire feeding that switch. Another is for a cable used to feed an outlet for 250VAC 15 or 20 amp appliances that do not need a neutral, there the white is hot (but should be identified as being hot, usually with black tape inside junction boxes).
    • The neutral wire is identified by gray or white insulated wire, perhaps using stripes or markings.
    • With lamp cord wire the ribbed wire is the neutral, and the smooth wire is the hot. NEC2008 400.22(f) allows surface marking with ridged, grooves or white stripes on the surface of lamp cord. With transparent cord the hot wire is copper colored, and the neutral is silver colored.
    • Grounding wire of circuit may be bare or identified insulated wire of green or having green stripes. Note that all metallic systems in a building are to be bonded to the building grounding system, such as water, natural gas, HVAC piping, and others.
    • Larger wires are furnished only in black; these may be properly identified with suitable paint or tape.
    • All wiring in a circuit except for the leads that are part of a device or fixture must be the same gauge. Note that different size wires may be used in the same raceway so long as they are all insulated for the maximum voltage of any of these circuits.
    • The Code gives rules for calculating circuit loading.
    • Ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection is required on receptacles in wet locations. This includes all small appliance circuits in a kitchen, receptacles in a crawl space, basements, bathrooms and a receptacle for the laundry room, as well as outdoor circuits within easy reach of the ground. However, they are not required for refrigerators because unattended disconnection could cause spoilage of food, nor for garbage disposals. Instead, for refrigerators and other semi-permanent appliances in basements and wet areas, a one-outlet non-GFCI dedicated receptacle is generally used. Two-wire outlets having no grounding conductor may be protected by an upstream gfci and must be labelled "no grounding". Most GFCI receptacles allow the connection and have GFCI protection for down-stream connected receptacles. Receptacles protected in this manner should be labeled "GFCI protected".
    • Most circuits have the metallic components interconnected with a grounding wire connected to the third, round prong of a plug, and to metal boxes and appliance chassis.
    • Furnaces, water heaters, heat pumps, central air conditioning units and stoves must be on dedicated circuits
    • The code provides rules for sizing electrical boxes for the number of wires and wiring devices in the box.
    • In a fixture, the brass screw is hot, and the silver screw is neutral. The grounding screw is usually painted green.

    The foregoing is just a brief overview and must not be used as a substitute for the actual National Electrical Code.

    Thursday, July 12, 2012

    Electrical -troubleshooting tips


    Troubleshooting in a Nutshell
    Here is a quick, concise look at how to find the source of residential electrical problems. When in doubt, always hire a professional  www.kansas-electrician.com


    If one thing isn’t working:
    • Turn it on. If that doesn't help,
      Replace it.
    If more than one thing is not working:
    • Reset all breakers and after that all GFIs.
    • If things still don’t work,
      Locate a bad connection by checking and improving those at the interface between the dead things and any live things nearby (especially of that circuit, if you know it)
    • If they still don’t work,
      You can replace the breaker and check the neutral connections at the panel.
    • If more than one circuit is affected,
      Be sure that main and submain breakers are not blocking the voltage; confirm that any electric range or dryer will not heat well;
      Then call the power company.
    • If the breaker or GFI retripped upon your resetting,
      • Unplug or switch off everything you can (especially on that circuit, if you know it); then try resetting again.
      • If it holds,
        See which thing you undid sets it off.
      • But if it didn't hold,
        Break the circuit’s hot apart midway along the circuit and try resetting; continue reconnecting the circuit and breaking the hot apart at other places (one at a time) to narrow down where the fault is occurring.
      • If it was the GFI retripping, go back after these procedures and break the neutral apart in a similar way in case this will narrow the location down.
    If, instead of not working, the problem is that blinking, flickering, dimming, or brightening of lights occurs or that power to some things comes and goes at will, then:
    • Over time, keep track of which lights and even receptacles are affected and which are not.
    • If the irregularity is limited to part of a circuit,
      Check/improve connections at the interface between the troubled things and the good of that circuit.
    • If it affects the whole circuit,
      Check the circuit’s panel neutral or replace the breaker.
    • If the unusual behavior extends to more than one circuit,
      • Check all panel neutrals.
      • See if good voltage is sustained at the time of blinks, etc. at all terminals of the main breaker and of any submain breaker.
      • If these procedures suggest the power company’s connections are at fault,
        Have them check their things.
    If, instead, someone has been shocked:
    • Confirm which item(s) are hot, using a tester, then
    • Turn off circuits, one by one, to see which one is to blame, then
    • Unplug, disconnect, or switch off things of that circuit (especially the shocking thing), and
    • If one of these actions eliminates the hotness,
      • Have the item responsible replaced or repaired.
      • Then have the item and its circuit grounded better.
    • But if there was still shock hazard present, break the hot wires apart in various places along the circuit, as outlined above for solving breakers tripping, but noting instead whether hotness is affected.
    • If metal piping was hot, check all accessible pipes for contact with wires.