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Residential Electrical Wiring
An important residential electrical wiring tip is the choice of electrical wiring. Many codes only require the use of 14-2 wire, which consists of a black, white and bare ground wire that is typically tied into a 15-amp circuit breaker. Again, with the increase of electronic technology in the home I would suggest using 12-2 wire in all rooms. This is a thicker wire u...

sually used in conjunction with 20amp circuit breakers. With more current carrying capacity you will have less chance of tripping circuit breakers when the home theater, computer and vacuum cleaner are all running simultaneously. If you have kids, you know this is possible.

Also, if you plan on building a workshop in your garage or basement you’ll definitely want to use 12-2 wire. I’ve been in too many homes where I turn on the table saw and trip the circuit breaker because someone else was simultaneously using an electric drill.

Location and Height of Electrical Outlets
Again, codes dictate minimum heights off of the floor and maximum distances between outlets. However, I typically install outlets so that the bottom of the box is 16 inches off the floor. I also try to install outlet boxes near where I anticipate furniture to reside.

Circuit Panel and Circuit Breakers

Circuit Panel and Circuit Breakers

The second most important maxim to remember when building a new home and installing your home’s electrical wiring is. “You can never have enough circuit breakers.”

As our homes today become increasingly filled with home theater systems, multiple computers, fancier lighting systems, and other new age kitchen appliances, residential electricity demand continues to rise. Gone are the days when 100 Amp circuit panel is sufficient.

This said, when meeting with your electrical contractor ask for a minimum of a 200 Amp circuit panel with 40 locations for circuit breakers. You may not initially need all of the circuit breaker locations, but over time you probably will. For example if you install a pool or build a home addition later on you will need additional circuit breakers.

If you are unfamiliar with a circuit panel, it is where all of the wires in your home get tied into and connected to circuit breakers. These circuit breakers are fed by one large circuit breaker that connects your home to the local electric grid. Typically each circuit breaker is targeted towards a specific room within the home. In some cases there may be multiple circuit breakers for a room.

There are national, state and local residential electrical wiring codes that specify the maximum number of outlets, switches and appliances that can be on a circuit breaker. Also, circuit breakers come in different shapes and sizes with different current rating capacities. The electrical codesalso specify the current capacity of the circuit breaker for particular rooms. They also specify the types of rooms that need ground fault interrupt circuit breakers. For example, typically kitchens and bathrooms will require 20amp ground fault circuit breakers due to the number of appliances that are used in these rooms and the higher risk of electrical shock. Ground fault interrupt circuit breakers are designed to trip in the event an electrical appliance comes in contact with water, thus potentially saving your life.

residential wiring safety

Residential Electrical Wiring Safety

First and foremost, when working with residential electrical wiring remember one important maxim. “Electricity can kill”. It is important you fully respect it when working on electrical wiring in the home. In many municipalities you may not even be allowed to work on it, and in most cases you will need a permit at a minimum. In my experience local building inspectors will provide homeowners permits for small projects if they present an electrical wiring diagram plan and can demonstrate some level of basic electrical wiring knowledge.

A couple of key things to remember when it comes to residential electrical wiring:

Black and Red wires are typically “Hot” meaning current (Amps) are flowing from the circuit breaker to the appliance or electrical box

White wires are usually the “Returns” where current (Amps) will return back to the circuit breaker after passing through the appliance/load.

The ground wire is normally bare and attaches to the appliance frame. Normally current should not be running through it. The only time current should be running through it is when there is a short circuit, and when this does happen the circuit breaker should trip killing current flow to the appliance and wire.

White and ground wires should not be connected together, except back at the circuit panel bus bar. If so, every time the appliance is turned on, electricity will flow through both the white return wire and the ground wire which is a dangerous situation.

outdoor lighting

All Tech Electric & Contracting

September 10

The beauty and value of your home and garden can be enhanced by showcasing it with a well-designed outdoor lighting scheme. Moreover, landscape lighting increases security and safety by discouraging potential intruders. Outdoor lighting sys...

tems are a smart investment. Let Brilliant Electric Heating & Cooling (ESG) design an outdoor illumination plan for your home. Call us and we will provide ideas for illuminating your walkway, pathway, garden, steps, pool area, pond, waterfall and fountain and more!

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Landscape Lighting

More Landscape Lighting

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Hot Tub Wiring

Hot Tub Wiring

A hot tub is excellent for entertaining guests or just relaxing, which is why it is becoming a staple in many homes. However, wiring anything around a source of water can be a dangerous job. In fact, some electric companies...

refuse to wire hot tubs because of the risks involved. We not only know and understand the National Electric Code, but are also confident in what they do. Rest assured that our skilled electrical contractors will wire your hot tub with precision to be sure your family is safe.

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All Tech Electric & Contracting LLC: Installing Saunas - check us out first - save thou...

All Tech Electric & Contracting LLC: Installing Saunas - check us out first - save thou...: A very hot gift for a very cool lady....or a cool gift for a very hot lady...her 50th b-day and she was TOTALLY BLOWN AWAY...After deliver...

Mood Lighting

Mood Lighting

As we continue our series on lighting, it's now time to look at another function of lighting: mood.

One of the most common questions we  is: What is "mood lighting," and how can I achieve it?

First, we often think mood lighting must mean scented candles strategically placed to create a romantic atmosphere. That plus a little Barry White playing in the background?

But in reality, mood lighting is much more important to every facet of the life being lived in the home. The first consideration should be how much ambient lighting there is in a room. To assess this, look at the room at different times of day: morning, afternoon, evening, and night, without any lights on at all. Even at night, you may have light coming in from a bright street lamp, whereas in the morning, you may find that one room is considerably darker than another.

Next, consider how you might add to the ambient lighting in the room. In a living or dining room, you could add a central light from the ceiling, which will bring in diffuse light to the room.

Of course, this isn't the best approach in a bedroom, where you want softer lighting, as a central fixture will be too bright, and will call attention to itself.

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Harmony

In this continuing series on lighting, we've most recently taken a look at lighting through the guidelines to Interior Design: function, mood, and harmony. These Guidelines can be used for any aspect of decorating, whether you're looking at a whole room or at just one aspect, such as lighting.

 let's look at how to best have your lighting choices harmonize.

There are two major points to consider here: harmony among the fixtures, and harmony between the fixtures and the rest of the furnishings.

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lighting- home improvement

more ideas-home improvement through lighting

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lighting- simplicity & elegance

simplicity and elegance

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ideas for home improvement- lighting

ideas for home improvement- lighting

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trends in lighting

trends in lighting

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Modern trends in lighting

modern trends in lighting-master bath

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Top Seven ROI Remodels

Projects that get you the most bang for your buck

Build a better kitchen, bath or bedroom and live by the "bigger is better" mantra if you want the most return for your money on remodeling jobs.

Homeowners who updated their most frequented rooms and those who added on more living space enjoyed the biggest bang for their buck on home improvements, according to Remodeling Online's latest Cost Vs. Value Report.

The annual report is the result of responses from 300 real estate professionals in 60 markets nationwide. Remodeling Online asked the pros what level of return a given remodeling job would provide if the house were sold within one year of the work.

On the average nationwide, kitchen and bath remodels along with second-story, bath, family room and master suite additions were rated tops.

Experts say newness and spaciousness are key.

 

"You get the value because it's all new. People spend a lot of time in certain parts of the home the kitchen, the bedroom. Even though they are unconscious for most of the time in the bedroom, they want to know it's nice when they wake up. It's all just psychological," said Ken Willis, president of the non-profit League of California Homeowners, an Ontario, California-based home remodeling, real estate transaction and financing information portal with 12,000 members.

"Large is in vogue. You get value simply by having more space," Willis added.

From a minor kitchen remodeling job's return of 88 percent to a 71 percent return on both a major kitchen remodeling job and a master suite addition, here's a look at what gives you the top five best returns for your money. Maintenance-related jobs are excluded. For periods longer than a year between the remodeling work and the home sale, expect smaller returns.

Although the data is updated annually, the figures below should give you a general idea of what return you'll get on your improvements.

Best Returns

Home Improvement Job	Cost	Resale Value	Cost Recouped
Minor Kitchen Remodel	$17,928	$15,278	85.2%
Window Replacement (Wood)	$11,040	$9,416	85.3%
Bathroom Remodel	$12,918	$10,970	84.9%
Window Replacement (Vinyl)	$10,160	$8,500	83.7%
Two-story Addition	$105,297	$87,654	83.2%
Major Kitchen Remodel	$54,241	$43,603	80.4%
Attic Bedroom Remodel	$44,073	$35,228	79.9%

Source: Remodeling Online/Hanley-Wood.

Resale value
The psychology of newness and more spacious quarters translates into top resale value when several conditions work in conjunction:

Curb Appeal
Curb appeal is the impression your home's exterior conveys. It should create an emotional desire to own the home and to live the lifestyle and status it represents, which hopefully continues inside. Curb appeal is what gets the prospective buyer inside to see your new master suite and remodeled kitchen and bath.

Remodeling to Existing Standards
If most of the homes in your neighborhood don't have a second story and you add one, the neighborhood could drag down the value of your home. If however, you rip out the old kitchen and put in a new one, your home will sell faster and at a better price than comparable homes with the original kitchen.

Quality Work Ask family, friends, co-workers and others you trust for referrals to licensed contractors specializing in the work you need completed. In states that don't license contractors, seek those with strong association ties and proof of insurance.http://www.kansas-electrician.com

Energy efficient fans

Fan-tastic!

How to find a good energy-efficient ceiling fan

By Michele Dawson

As the mercury starts to rise, so too does the urge to flip on the air conditioner. For those days when it's warm, but not quite hot enough to turn on the air conditioner, a ceiling fan is a great option — if you buy a good one that is energy-efficient.

In the last 10 years ceiling fans have become more technologically advanced, providing cooling in the summer months and warming in the winter months and ultimately helping you save on your energy bill.

Ceiling fans don't actually reduce the temperature, but during warm weather, they have a wind-chill effect. So if it's 85 degrees in your family room and you have a ceiling fan purring above, it will feel like 78 degrees. And in the winter, fans recirculate the heat to the living areas.

An efficient ceiling fan can reduce your energy bill up to 40 percent in the summer and 10 percent in the winter, using only as much as energy as a 100-watt light bulb.

Fans can coordinate your individual home style, and most offer options in color, finish, blade design, size, accessories and lighting. Styles include polished brass, antique brass, iron, copper, nickel, pewter, chrome, black, vibrant colors, oak, rosewood and other real wood veneers.

And as with most other appliances, you can even find energy efficient models from Energy Star, a national symbol for energy efficiency developed by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the U.S. Department of Energy.

Ceiling fans that have earned the Energy Star label are 10 percent more efficient than standard ceiling fans, which translates into saving $13 to $24 a year on utility bills.

EPA officials say the proper way to operate a fan includes switching the fan and light off when you leave the room; reversing the fan motor in winter months; and hanging the fan so that its blades are at least one foot below the ceiling, seven feet above the floor, and two feet from the nearest wall.

The American Lighting Association and EPA offer these suggestions for choosing the most efficient fan:

• Size: For rooms up to 225 square feet and larger, use a fan with a blade span of 50, 52, 54, or 56 inches. In rooms up to 144 square feet, use fans with blade spans of 42 or 44 inches. Smaller rooms up to 64 square feet should use a fan with a 32-inch blade span. Fan blades must be at least seven feet above the floor. A blade height of eight to nine feet above the floor will provide the most efficient cooling effect. Downrods are used with eight-foot ceilings, though some fans do require a nine or ten foot ceiling to hang properly. Extension downrods may be used when hanging a ceiling fan on either flat or sloped ceilings.

• Motor: Poor motor design can create most of the problems that are associated with ceiling fans. If the fan has an annoying click, buzz, or hum during operation, the motor is the most likely culprit. A motor that works too hard will burn itself out. A motor that is too powerful will be inefficient, wasting energy. Ideally, a ceiling fan should be designed to strike a balance between power and efficiency, ensuring that the blades are the proper pitch to move large amounts of air. Different motors are designed for different operating conditions.

• Blades: These can complete a room's décor, but they also need to perform effectively. Look for a blade pitch of at least 14 degrees, which is excellent for maximum air movement efficiency. Steer clear of blades constructed of particle board, printed paper or solid wood. Blades should weigh the same to avoid a wobbly fan.

• Lighting: Either built-in or added on, lighting can enhance your room's décor while meeting your lighting needs. Energy Star offers fans with and without lighting. If your fan doesn't include lighting, be sure to purchase an Energy Star-qualified light kit, which has either pin-based compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs) or screw-based CFLs. This lighting is compact, attractive, efficient, and long lasting, so you won't have to make frequent bulb changes.

• Controls: These make the difference between a fan that is merely functional and a fan that offers a world of convenience, energy efficiency, and even home security advantages. The most basic fan controls are a pull chain on the fan that varies the fan speed, and a switch on the fan that controls the blade direction. This is all many homeowners want to control their ceiling fan. You may also purchase a variety of optional controls to upgrade three-speed pull-chain models.

• Price: The prices of ceiling fans can vary. Cheap ceiling fans will wobble, click, and hum over time. They will not move air in your home efficiently or effectively, and they are likely to fail within a few years.

Our NEW OFFICE!!!

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Zinco Panels Part 2

Damage Created by Zinsco Panels

The Panels Produce Hazardous Situations

Zinsco panels may seem to work properly for years. But experts warn that these panels may present numerous problems and even hazards if and when they fail. In fact, o...

ne expert warns that as many as 25% of all Zinsco circuit breakers could fail to trip in response to an overcurrent or short circuit and create a possible hazardous situation.

Problems with certain Zinsco panels cannot be seen by the naked eye. Even after the cover of Zinsco panels has been removed, everything can seem to be in fine working order. Upon exploring its components, electricians find that breakers cannot be removed from the bus bar. They’ve welded together, which indicates that the breakers have melted. In that condition, a breaker would be unable to trip and may be allowing an unsafe amount of electricity into the home! This could lead to a potential fire.

Please, do not attempt to remove breakers from your own panel to see if they’ve melted. Only licensed electricians should. Zinsco panels can be electrical shock risks; they can appear to be shut off but are still conducting electricity!

 

Zinco Panels

Zinco Panels
May Leave Homes and Homeowners at Risk

Most Zinsco panels are obsolete today. However, at one time, they were extremely popular and installed in many regions throughout North America. As time has passed, electricians and hom...

e inspectors have discovered that certain Zinsco panels often can fail to operate properly and may leave homes and homeowners at risk to both fire and electrical shock. These panels can work fine for years, but as homes have increased energy demands, these panels may overheat and portions of it melt.

In this situation, if a breaker melts to the bus bar of the panel and can no longer adequately trip in case of an overcurrent or short circuit, an extreme amount of power from the outside electrical supply surges into a home’s panel and circuits. Once that happens, it cannot be stopped or shut off manually. Electricity will burn until it runs out of fuel or the wires melt. The panel could overheat and catch fire, causing serious harm to a home and its occupants.

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Home Owners + Electrical + Circuit Breaker

What should a home owner do?
Our Master Electrician can help you.
The circuit breaker panel is one of the most important parts of a home’s electrical system. It constantly distributes and receives electricity. The panel protects homes from power surges and other possible hazards. With regular maintenance by a licensed electrician, experts say that today’s electrical panels can function properly an...

d protect homes for 30 years or more.

If you suspect that you may have a Federal Pacific Electric, Zinsco, or an outdated circuit breaker panel in your home, or in any event, you have not had your panel inspected recently, you owe it to yourself and your family to contact a licensed electrical contractor in your area for an inspection.

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Fuses

Fuses

Fuses perform the same function as a breaker, except when a fuse blows, it has to be replaced.

There are cartridge fuses and screw-in fuses. Cartridges look kind of like a shotgun shell. They mount in a little rack that pulls in and out of a bracket

Screw-in fuses screw in and out like light bulbs. Some have a glass window on top and metal threads on bottom.

When a fuse blows, its in...

ternal metal strip breaks and the window may get discolored. Be sure to replace a fuse with the exact same amperage-rated fuse.

Fifteen and 20 amp fuses are the most common size ratings. Some fuses have a smaller screw base and are called "non-tamperable, type-S" fuses.

The threads vary in size so they can't be accidentally replaced by another type. When you install a fuse, screw it in snug, then give an extra 1/4-turn to make a solid connection.

Other fuses are rated as "slow-blow" or "time delay." They take a little longer to blow and are made to withstand short, extra surges of power -- like a motor starting.

When buying replacements, be sure to get the right fuse types. It's also a good idea to get a couple extra fuses of each type to keep on hand when working on circuits.

Qestions regarding Electrical Service

Questions Regardin Electrical Service
Question: I have been having a problem when I run the vacuum and plug it in on the west side of my condo, the west side power goes out but then comes back on (by itself) after 5-10 seconds (which I never heard of). I worked around this by plugging it in on the east side of the condo since the cord reaches…problem solved. Well, now with the heat, i have been us...

ing my portable A/C and experienced the same thing…I cannot use an extension cord for that plus it must be near the door so I can use the exhaust portal. Now today I came home from work, did not leave anything on except the fridge, oven/stove and microwave…also the TV & DVR were plugged in but turned off. When I got home, everything was off, then a few seconds and it would try to come back on and turn off again like the circuit breaker was auto-resetting. I went in the guest bedroom and their was no noise at the circuit breaker panel when the East side would come off and immediately turn off. I unplugged every single thing including the fridge, microwave, oven & all lamps, no power at all being used on the east side including nightlights. i turned on the stove and same thing, was hoping that was my problem…unplugged the stove and plugged in the microwave above it, worked fine…unplugged the microwave and plugged in the fridge, power went out…unplugged the fridge and turned on the surge protector for the TV/DVD and power went out. And again, the items would shut down then restart after 10 seconds then shut down almost immediately then restart. Any ideas? This is a multi-unit condo, I am on the 3rd floor. I have never lived anywhere where the power will go out then come back on.

Our reply:
Thanks for your electrical question.
 This sounds like a connection problem at the electrical panel with one of the main incoming electrical lines, most likely the neutral, or it could be a main circuit breaker that has a deteriorating connection with an internal panel component.
This is a very common electrical problem that occurs when the outside temperatures rise which will cause the electrical loads (air conditioning, etc.) to increase, thereby causing expansion and contraction of the electrical components, especially those components which are aluminum type materials and or aluminum wire.
This electrical problem will require testing and troubleshooting starting at the electrical panel that feeds your home electrical circuits. This is a problem that requires an experienced qualified licensed electrician.

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Electrical Problems -Narrowing the Cause Category

Narrowing the Cause Category

There are several possible causes for a given symptom.

	S Y M P T O M
CAUSE:	Does not work	Goes off and on at will or flickers	Runs dim or bright sometimes	Won’t go off	Shocks
A. Short/Ground-or-arc-fault/Overload	Yes	--	--	--	--
B. Circuit (or main) wire connection poor ("open")	Yes	Yes partially	Yes	--	--
C. Ground-fault without an intact intended ground path	--	--	--	--	Yes
D. Miswiring	Yes	--	--	Yes	Yes
E. Bad or mis-set device	Yes	Yes	--	Yes	--

Without knowing the kind of cause at work in your problem, you are unlikely to get to the root of it.How does a person go about identifying which one kind of cause is behind the symptom? To answer this, we need to get specific for each symptom, as follows.
1. Does Not Work. Is the cause some kind of short [A], an overload [A], an open [B], a miswiring [D], or a bad device [E]?

1. A bad or turned-off device itself [E] (other than a bad circuit breaker) will not affect more lights or appliances than the device is supposed to control or serve. But there can be connections at that switch, receptacle or light that could be poor and affect the circuit from that point on.
2. A miswiring [D] should almost be assumed if the problem’s timing corresponds with some home remodeling or some Upgrading of devices that has gone on. By miswiring I mean wrongly connected, not poorly connected. When there is a miswiring, it can sometimes be the ultimate cause behind other causes listed in the chart above.
3. When some things aren't working, the most important cause to determine or eliminate is the one I lump under the title "Short/ground-or-arc-fault/overload" [A]. I say this because these all result in a tripped breaker (blown fuse) or tripped GFI. If such trippedness is not discovered early, the cause behind the outage will escape you. In fact, finding and attempting to reset these can quickly lead to knowing which of these three subcauses is operating. Namely, a breaker or GFI that lets itself be reset indicates that there had been an overload or a non-recurring ground-or-arc-fault. (One exception about the breaker that allows resetting is if the breaker sometimes gets hot during normal loads because of poor connections at or in it; this will make it false-trip at times.)... On the other hand, if a resetting results quickly in a retripping, then you have a short or an active ground-or-arc-fault. Because the trippedness of a device is crucial to know, make certain you can confirm or eliminate the matter of tripping, because these devices are often hard to locate, reset, or interpret.
4. An open [B] is most likely the cause of an outage if the other causes above (i., ii., iii.) have been ruled out. But independently, an open neutral is almost certain if hotness is still present at a non-working item. A receptacle tester would read "open neutral" or "hot and ground reversed". An open is also likely if the dead items number more than one, but not enough to constitute a whole circuit. Dead outlets in the Places required to have GFCI protection, should not be thought to have an open till a tripped GFI is ruled out.

2. Goes Off and On At Will or Blinks or Flickers. Is this symptom due to a partial open [B] in the wiring connections, or something wrong with a device [E] or fixture? If the extent of the blink or outage is limited to one item or one switch's set of lights, then the cause is probably a bad device or fixture. If the things affected are more widespread, then the cause will be a connection that is compromised -- partially open -- somewhere. Its location would be one of the Connection points along the circuit, at its breaker, or at a main wire. A main wire problem would affect things on more than one circuit.
3. Runs Dim or Bright Sometimes. This indeed has only one cause-category: an open [B]. It may be intermittent or not. Is a main wire (of power company, meter area, or within the panel) having trouble, or is it a circuit wire? If these strange voltages affect things in many parts of the home, a Main wire connection is probably poor -- often the power company's fault (call them). If it is limited to one or two circuits, then it is probably an Open neutral shared by two circuits.
4. Won’t Go Off. Is this from a bad device [E] or a miswiring [D]? Miswiring from remodeling or from Upgrading of devices should occur to someone right away as a likely cause. Whatever won’t go off will be noticed quickly and associated with such recent activity. Aside from miswirings, the cause will be that the device that is supposed to shut the thing off is either not adjusted right, or else is faulty and will need replacement Repair is usually impossible or iffy.
5. Shocks Someone. Aside from the rare 240-volt shock, this would by nature be a case of a ground-fault finding its only path to ground [C] through a person’s body. Miswiring [D] is a prior cause that might set up this condition. Rewiring or replacement of devices in a home may be fresh in your mind and suggest good places to look.

Electrical Problems & Trouble Shoooting

Trouble shooting: Electrical

 

Symptoms

1. Some things don't work. This is the most common trouble. And when this is the rock-bottom symptom, it is important to recognize it as such. The symptom is not suddenly: "the breaker doesn’t work" or "the fixture is bad" or "the switch doesn’t work". Those may be possible causes, and therefore replacing such components might take care of the problem. But if you are going to be an effective detective, you need to keep the real mystery -- the basic symptom -- in mind. Namely, some things are not working. Then you can proceed to test out the various possibilities (and save time and money by not replacing everything in your electrical system).
2. Things are working now but in the past some things have gone out and later come back on their own or else they will blink or flicker at times. In other words, the failure is intermittent. It is either very brief or longer lasting -- even for days. If there is blinking, it would be instantaneous (a fraction of a second) and might or might not be related to heavy appliances turning on or off. Any flickering would be irregular or jagged (not rhythmic) and might go on while.
3. Lately, things dim down or brighten up for a time, and sometimes in response to my turning other things on or off. This category is to be distinguished from the previous one. The brightness or dimness may continue for minutes. Then it might fluctuate without warning.
4. Something won't turn off. This is a little different from "some things don’t work" ("1" above), which refers to lights, outlets, or appliances not working. This category could mean a control device (switch) is not doing its job, but there could be another cause.
5. Someone experienced a shock. This is actually quite uncommon, but it is the most impressive to a person -- impressive about its potential danger and the need to fix the problem.

Next, try to observe and note the scope of the problem, regardless of what the symptom-category is. For instance, which lights in the home flicker and which don’t? Are there outlets that are dead besides the ones you use and miss the most? This is often very important. Perhaps you should write these facts about the problem down for use in the rest of the diagnostic process. The extent of the problem, along with the category of its symptoms, will help you see what tests to make at what places.

Then use various tests and procedures to narrow down the cause -- from a different set of categories -- and then to pinpoint its location. I will describe these procedures below shortly. Here I want to emphasize the frame of mind with which to approach the testing. Carefulness, patience, and confidence are important. Occasionally you will meet with success early in the game, but don’t expect this. Again, writing down what you have done and the results you observed may be helpful. Keep noticing your assumptions. Don’t introduce more than one variable at a time. To be reliable, electrical diagnosis needs to be somewhat scientific in its method.

Finally, when you have found the nature and location of the cause, take action to correct it. This may be as simple as resetting or replacing something. Or it may involve cutting damaged wires back a little (with power turned off) and making new connections. If you reach the point of repair and it seems a little beyond your ability or knowledge, a friend or a professional can be brought in at that point, but you will have done the head-scratching part.

Are Outdoor Outlets Safe?

Are Outdoor Outlets Safe?

As with anything else, outdoor receptacles are as safe as the person using them. Although it may seem less safe to use electricity outside, it is actually very safe to do so. In fact, most outdoor outlets have special protections in place to ensure that they remain as safe as possible. One of the most common ways that they are protected is by using GFCI outlets, rather ...

than standard electrical outlets. GFCI outlets are equipped with special sensors that can detect small changes in electrical current and shut the power off if necessary. This will help you from accidental electrocution if there is a short, if something comes into contact with water and more. To further protect your outlets, it is common practice to cover them so that they are protected from wind, rain, dirt and other elements.

All in all, an outdoor electrical outlet is a great way to increase the versatility of your outdoor spaces. Whether you are using it to power your electric lawn equipment, special lighting or any other equipment, there is an unlimited number of uses for these outlets. If you need additional outlets on your home, or if you just don’t have any to begin with, get in touch with your local electrician. They can not only advise you on safe placement and usage, but install them fairly quickly and efficiently.

Outdoor Electrical Outlets

A Guide to Outdoor Electrical Outlets

Regardless of the climate that you live in, there is a good chance that you use outdoor electrical outlets at some point during the year. That being said, there are some areas that will naturally make more use of this type of outdoor receptacle. When used properly, an outdoor electrical outlet can be a very handy thing to have. It allows you to power devices ...

and appliances that you would normally be unable to use outdoors. How much do you know about the electrical outlets that are on the outside of your property?

For the most part, an outdoor electrical socket is exactly the same as the outlets within your home. In most cases, an outdoor receptacle is a 120v, three-pronged grounded outlet that the majority of our appliances plug into. You can find them on exterior walls, on decks, by pools and sometimes on important pieces of equipment such as pumps and other exterior appliances. Naturally, outdoor outlets are more popular in warmer and more temperate climates. These areas lend themselves to more time spent outside, which makes them incredibly useful.

What Can I Use It For?

The simple answer to this question is that you can use them for anything that you would normally power inside. This type of outlet is very popular for stereos, lights, fans and anything else that might be necessary outside. When used in conjunction with an outdoor kitchen, they can be used to power blenders, microwaves, hot plates and more. With the popularity of electrical lawn devices on the rise, it is also a great place to plug in electric mowers, weed trimmers and blowers.

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LED Lightbulbs

Despite the lifetime energy and maintenance savings potential of LED lightbulbs, mainstream adoption for the technology has been slow to develop -- mainly because many bulbs still cost at least $20 each and often double that, considerably m...

ore expensive than the alternative.

Pricetags for 60-watt equivalent LED bulbs should be cut almost in half to $11.06 by 2020, suggests a new report by Lux Research. But only if LED manufacturers work on reducing costs for these four areas:
•Central packaging (which account for about 19 percent of a bulb's costs)
•Thermal management (the biggest area after overall system design, but not until 2017)
•Secondary optics for controlling where a light is focused and how the beam is shaped (5 percent)
•Dimmable drivers (which offer a chance for 1 percent improvement in pricing)

"We find that today's balance of system technology solutions fall short of the dramatic cost reductions needed to mirror the LED package and existing alternate technology solutions are ineffective and uneconomical, presenting opportunities for technology innovation," said Pallavi Madakasira, analyst for Lux research and author of the report, "Cheaper, Brighter, Cooler: The Need for Cost Reduction Past the Package."

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Lighting- Laundry Room

Getting the most out of your laundry room starts with the right lighting fixtures from your lighting contractor. Without the right lighting in your laundry room, you might as well be doing your laundry in the closet. Conventional lighting can be too hot for an already warm space. Florescent bulbs tend to make a room feel like your cleaning clothes at the DMV. Use this guide to lighting with LED bu...

lbs and you can be sure your mud room will be well lit for an affordable price.

LED Track Lighting

For laundry spaces that need a bright light source, LED track fixtures can be the source that you need to light your washer, dryer and folding area with one simple switch. LED’s are easy to install over existing fixtures. Attach these fantastic laundry lights to a dimmer switch and you can keep the lights low for when you leave the room and turn them on bright when you need to fold the clothes.

Under cabinet Lighting

Many mud rooms have cabinets above the washer, dryer, lavatory or laundry folding area. These are excellent areas for installing under cabinet lights. LED under cabinet systems are easy to install and work well with most hanging cabinet styles. When installing under cabinet LED’s, it’s a good idea to space them apart about two feet for optimal light displacement. Rope lights are also another style of under cabinet lighting that works great in laundry room areas and can provide your laundry space with a continuous ambient light source under the cabinets.

Recessed Lights

A recessed fixture is commonly employed over the top of each laundry appliance and counter space facing directly down onto the surface. These flush ceiling LED fixtures are fantastic ways to keep your laundry room well lit without the need for exposed fixtures. Recessed lighting comes in various styles but LED recessed lighting works particularly better than a conventional can light in many ways. LED recessed lights are much smaller, yet yield more lumens per watt. Since they produce little heat, they can be installed in areas where conventional recessed lighting cannot. They also use significantly less energy making them a great addition to any mud room.

Under Cabinet Lighting

Benefits of Under Cabinet Lighting in Your Home

 Each individual light fixture has its owns pros and cons, with under cabinet lighting being no exception to this rule. Of course, if you’re not sure whether or not you need to add this partic...

ular pendant to your kitchen lighting scheme, you’ll probably find yourself weighing the pros and cons. Only you can decide if under cabinet lighting will be beneficial to your space or not.
Draw Attention

If you want to draw attention to a beautiful custom backsplash, then under cabinet lighting, installed by us is the way to do it. Sometimes we invest in particular elements in our kitchen that we truly love, but we cannot truly enjoy them until they are properly and adequately lit. Under cabinet lights add lighting not only to the countertop areas, but they also draw attention to your backsplash, which is a great way to draw the eye in.

Add Task Lighting

Task lighting is by far one of the most important parts of a kitchen lighting scheme. This is because task lighting works by highlighting whatever task it is you are focusing on at the moment whether it’s baking cookies or peeling potatoes. Being able to see what you’re doing is better not only for your eyes, but it also adds to the overall appeal of the space as well. Under cabinet lights are a great way to add task lighting to dark countertops, which can make the entire space more useable.

Add Ambient Lighting

Ambient or general lighting is a must for every kitchen lighting scheme. Of course, most people assume that they can install an overhead ceiling light and call it good. That’s just not the case. A kitchen requires plenty of artificial lighting not just for various tasks, but also for general and even lighting. Under cabinet lights can help add to the overall general lighting of the room, which is always beneficial.

Highlight Decorative Pieces

If you’re big into decorating, you’ve probably got a few decorative pieces on your kitchen countertops. This could be a bowl of fruit or a beautiful set of vintage canisters or something else entirely. With that in mind, you’ll find that under cabinet lights are a great way to highlight these specific items, which helps to really draw the eye toward the decorative portions of the kitchen.

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