Wednesday, May 23, 2012

Outdoor Lighting

Outdoor Lighting
  • Overview

Bright Outside: Outdoor Lighting. Lighting isn’t just a consideration for indoors — it’s even more challenging outside, because there aren’t many walls and ceilings to reflect light back into the environment. A key strategy is to shine lights on buildings or other exterior surfaces. If the surfaces are lighter in color, lower wattage lamps can be used. Shining lights off low gloss or rough surfaces helps to minimize glare.
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A Lighter Load: Efficient Bulbs & Lamps


CFLs enclosed in fixtures are good for porch lighting, post top lighting, or small area lighting, when lower light output is enough. For large areas, IR halogen PAR flood lamps are most effective. Halogen lamps can be up to 50% more efficient than standard incandescents. Halogen PAR floods are more efficient than standard PAR floods.
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HID: Light With Might


High intensity discharge (HID) lamps are highly efficient lights that use 75% to 90% less energy than incandescents. They are commonly used in exterior lighting applications, because they produce a bright light, and last up to 24,000 hours. This class of lamps includes metal halide, high-pressure sodium, and mercury vapor. Metal halide lamps work well for lighting large areas for extended use. High-pressure sodium lamps are more efficient than metal halide, but emit a yellow light with poor color rendering. Mercury lamps are less efficient than metal halide lamps. These HID lamps must warm up before reaching full intensity, and require special ballasts.

Types of High-Intensity Discharge Lamps
Efficacy (lumens per watt)Lifetime (Hours)Color Rendering IndexColor Temperature (K)
Mercury Vapor25-6016,000-24,00050 (poor to fair)3200-7000 (warm to cold)
Metal Halide70-1155,000-20,00070 (fair)3700 (cold)
High-pressure sodium50-14016,000-24,00025 (poor)2100 (warm)
*Source: Department of Energy, Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy, “Energy Savers: High-Intensity Discharge Lighting.” (July 19, 2011),
Content in part adapted from the Rensselaer Lighting Research Center, “Exterior Luminaires”.
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Sunlight at Night: Solar-Powered Lights


Solar powered landscape and walk lights are convenient and attractive. They require no wiring for power, and install easily. But solar powered lights may not fully charge when it’s cloudy, so their light output may fade or disappear at night. Still, solar lights have been used for many years, even in cloudy conditions.
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Take Aim: Floodlights


Floodlights mounted high on buildings provide wider light distribution. Use floodlights carefully to ensure they don’t shine into neighbors’ windows or property.
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Smart Savings: Controls & Sensors


For more energy savings, use controls for outdoor lighting as you would for indoor lighting. Motion detectors for security lighting turn lamps on when motion is sensed. Integrated photocells that turn lights off in daylight are good for lights that operate all night.

Energy Savings- Lighting

Get Enlightened: Interior Lighting. When it comes to lighting your home, quality is more important than quantity. The type and placement of a light source can help you work around the home more easily, and create mood and atmosphere that affect your experience. There are many designs and technologies that can meet your lighting needs using less electricity. Indoor lighting accounts for 20% of electric energy use in an average California home and costs about $20 a year. Efficient lighting isn’t just about using a different type of bulb — it’s about improving the quality of your home while paying less for the improvement in the long run. Lighting technology has advanced, and efficient lighting can play a big part in lowering overall electricity consumption.
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Lighting Types 101


The most common home lights are incandescent, halogens, compact fluorescents (CFLs), and light emitting diodes (LEDs). The incandescent was invented over 100 years ago by Thomas Edison, and more than 90% of the energy consumed by a standard incandescent bulb is given off as heat, while only 10% is converted into light! Halogens are high output incandescents that screw into standard sockets and are often used as spot or accent lighting. Infrared (IR) lights use a coating that recycles waste heat within the bulb and can be up to 50% more efficient than standard incandescents. They emit a whiter light, making them a good choice for illuminating areas where visual sharpness or color clarity is important, such as for lighting artwork (consider proper UV shielding).
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Super Savers: CFL Bulbs


Lighting technology has advanced over the past decade, and more efficient lighting can help lower your overall electrical consumption while meeting visual performance needs. The latest generation of CFLs are the most common and multi-functional energy efficient products available. The first CFLs cost $20 to $25 per bulb and were only available in 2 or 3 styles. Now, CFLs cost almost the same as conventional incandescents ($1.50 to $3 apiece). They’re available in hundreds of styles and can be used almost anywhere — there are ceiling mounted, recessed, decorative, vanity fixtures, and more. Modern CFLs provide a range of colors, from daylight white to “warm” colors similar to incandescents. While CFLs are still a bit more expensive than incandescents, they often last up to 8 times as long and, for comparable light, use about 1/4 of the electricity. One CFL can eliminate the need to produce, install, remove, and dispose of up to a dozen standard incandescent bulbs. To top it off, each CFL you install can save you over $30 in electricity costs over the lifetime of that bulb. For example, if you replaced the 5 most-used 75-watt bulbs in your house with CFLs, you could save $500 over 8 years!
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Bright Ideal: CFL Fixtures


You can save by replacing an incandescent bulb with a screw-based CFL — but if you also replace the entire light fixture with one designed exclusively for a CFL, you may save just as much and get even more benefits. It could reduce the risk of the CFL overheating, and help the CFL last longer. Check out this table for statistics:

Light Bulb Retrofit Life Cycle Cost Analysis
Standard A-style Incandescent Bulb CFL Bulb
Energy Consumed (watts)10029
Rated Lamp Life (hours)1,50012,000
Cost Per Bulb and Fixture*$0.50$10
Life of Bulb (years)**1.08.2
Energy Use Per Year (kWh) *146.042
Operating Cost Per Year***$21.60$6.30
Savings Per YearNA$15.30
Payback Time for Price of CFL (years)NA0.65
Total Life Cycle Costs (8.2 yrs)$181$16.30
Total Life Cycle SavingsNA$165
* It is assumed the fixture for the incandescent is already installed
** With an average use-rate of 4 hours per day
*** Calculations assuming an average electricity rate of $0.1483/kWh, U.S. Energy Information Administration, "Average Retail Price of Electricity to Ultimate Customers by End-Use Sector, by State," (March 11, 2011),
Source: Goorskey, Sarah, Wang, K., Smith, A., “Rocky Mountain Institute’s Home Energy Briefs #2 Lighting,” (2004).
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A Long Time Coming: LEDs


LEDs, also called “solid-state” devices, are an emerging technology with potential for energy savings and longevity. LEDs have become the standard lights for washers and dryers, cell phones, bicycle lights, and holiday lights. Their use is expanding into retail, grocery, and restaurant uses for spotlighting merchandise and food. LEDs are also used outdoors for street lighting, open or covered parking lots, traffic signals, building façades, and monument accent lighting. LEDs are different from incandescent or fluorescent bulbs, because they’re made from materials like silicon and nickel, similar to how computer chips are made. LED lights are long-lasting, durable and efficient.. Today they come in a wide range of colors including white. Modern LEDs can last 7 to 15 times longer than CFLs, and are 30% to 66% more efficient — some LED table lamps use only 5 watts. Screw-in LED bulbs are available in various sizes, but are expensive at $40 to $60 per bulb.

A Little Light Housekeeping… Besides light bulbs, there are many other things to think about when deciding what kind of lighting to use. Using sensors, dimmers, creative day lighting, or even simply painting walls, can significantly enhance a home. Lighting controls ensure lights are turned on when needed; they can also adjust lighting to desired levels, and can save energy if used properly.

Clean & Bright

Periodically cleaning light fixture reflectors, diffusers, and lenses, and replacing any parts that have yellowed or lost their reflectivity, will enhance a room’s light. Be sure to follow manufacturer’s instructions.

Right Bulbs: CFLs

CFLs may overheat if installed in an incandescent fixture. It may also cause the CFL to put out less light over time, and fail sooner. Some screw-based CFLs reduce their light output by 20% if inserted base-down, as in table lamps. Using dedicated fixtures eliminates the thermal and glare problems you may experience if you use a fixture designed for a regular bulb.

The Lower the Longer

Dimmers extend bulb life while saving energy. Compact and tube fluorescents are available in dimmable fixtures.

Timers: Set It & Save

Timers save energy simply by turning lights on and off at pre-designated times.

Sensors Help You Save

Sensors turn lights on only when they are needed, in response to actual conditions. Ultrasonic motion sensors respond to movement, while infrared sensors respond to body heat, and photo sensors respond when ambient light levels are above or below certain levels

Mood Lighting: Create Ambiance

Each room’s characteristics determine the right lighting to use. It might not be possible to change a room’s solar orientation or location, but you can make other changes. For example, replace dark paint and carpet with lighter colors to reflect more light.

Find Daylight Savings

Economics, health, and aesthetics all favor using as much natural light as possible at home. Natural daylight produces less heat per unit of illumination than electric lights, reducing cooling bills as well as the demand for electricity. Windows, skylights, and light tubes pull in natural daylight and reduce the need for electric lighting in dark or shaded areas like basements. Spectrally-selective glazing and tints, or low-e coatings, make day lighting compatible with cooling and heating requirements in any climate. If replacing your windows is not an option, add film to your existing windows to let the right amount of light and heat in and out.

Tuesday, May 15, 2012

home Theatre - wiring/speakers


For the ultimate in home theatre systems, have the experts do the work!!! A mass of wiring will not only create extreme confusing but most likely result in overloading and power failure- or in many cases, electricial fire.
To achieve a professional look:


 


You will want to avoid what happenes to most do-it-yourself-ers:



Speakers
  • In-wall/In-ceiling speakers can be used in most rooms. Plan on four to six wall speakers for a home theater system. Other rooms only need 2 speakers. In-wall speakers are best, but ceiling speakers can be used in bathrooms or other rooms where wall speakers are not possible.
  • Even if you do not use in-wall speakers, you will still want to run the speaker wires through the walls to hide them. Determine where the speakers will be and put a wall plate behind that location. Wall plates for floor standing speakers should be at the standard 12" height. Wall plates for speakers mounted to the wall should be directly behind the speaker. Just make sure that your wall plate doesn't interfere with the speaker's mounting bracket.
  • Some speaker distribution systems can support volume controls in each room. These are usually a Cat-5 wire (check manufacturer specs to confirm) that runs from the amplifier to an in-wall volume control. These volume controls look a lot like lighting dimmers. These types of sound distribution systems can be expensive and there are cheaper alternatives. The advantage of these systems is that the control panel will let you can control the volume of all speakers throughout the house, change the input source, skip through songs, or even act as an IR receiver so that you can use your remote controls from any room.
  • A cheaper method of controlling volume in each room is to use an impedance matching volume control. This is a volume knob that is run in-line with the speaker. This means that you run both the left and right speaker wire from the amp to the knob and then from the knob to each speaker. These systems don't let you do anything but control volume, but they are a lot cheaper and can be used with any type of amplifier/receiver.
  • There are also impedance matching volume controls that are meant to be located with the receiver. These are speaker selectors that take in 1 or 2 pair of speaker wires and then split it up into 2, 4, or 8 different sets of speaker outputs. Some speaker selectors simply turn each pair of speakers on & off. Others let you select from 2 different inputs. Others have separate volume knobs for each speaker output. These are the cheapest and easiest solution to implement. You just need to run speaker wires from the speaker selector to each speaker.
  • Speaker wire comes in 2 and 4 conductor wire. Sometimes, using the 4 conductor wire can be cheaper and easier. Instead of running separate wires to each speaker, you run the 4 conductor wire from the amplifier to the first speaker and then to the second speaker. You use less wire, and 4 conductor wire isn't that much more expensive than 2 conductor wire.

Enegy Audit

Electrical Energy Audit

This program is one of the most exciting programs that I have had the pleasure of being involved with in many years.
KCP&L is offering rebates to their customers for upgrading their electrical systems to use less power. There are many ways to do this, solar power, energy efficient and LED lighting, offering different rebates depending on how much power will be saved.

Start with an energy assessment

Have All-Tech Electric & Contracting and a team of engineers conduct a complete power analysis on your business, commercial property or industrial facility. We can show you where you can save the most power to maximize your energy saving rebates and tax credits to help you pay for your upgrades. In most cases, a sizeable portion of the initial cost can be covered with the rebate program and this means a considerable savings on your monthly electric bill.

Save energy. Save money.

Most businesses are not even aware that KCP&L has allotted these energy saving rebates—which is lost if not used. Rebate programs are continuously changing and are often confusing. All-Tech Electric & Contracting has specialized in energy retrofits and can guide you through the process, saving you money and saving energy. Give us a call so we can help pass these savings on to you!

Electrical wiring

Electrical Wiring & Connections

By , About.com Guide

A vast list of electrical wiring articles and examples of wire connections, wire sizes, and wire uses.
  1. Electrical Wire 101
  2. Wiring Connections

Electrical Wire 101

Photo of stranded wire.Learn what types of wire there are, what size is best for your installation, what the color of the wire signifies, what types of special wires are available for specific uses, and what types have been used around your home in the past and in the present.

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Wiring Connections

Electrical Panel WiredWhether you need to know how to wire an electric panel, range, receptacle, or switch, you'll find the much needed information here.

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Sunday, May 13, 2012

Tips for new home owners


http://www.kansas-electrcian.com
Outlets/Receptacles Used In Homes
A photo of electrical outlets. Outlets, also known as receptacles, become weak and the tension of the inner contact points won't hold the cord plugs securely after years of use. Installing and replacing outlets can be easy with these top outlet and receptacle articles.

Electricial Circuits for Kichen Remodel

Electrical Circuits Needed When Remodeling A Kitchen

Must Have Kitchen Circuits


www.kansas-electrician.com
Kitchen remodeling can not only improve the look of your home, it can also increase the value by upgrading the electrical circuits. As you may be well aware of, older homes and their wiring were not set up for all of the modern conveniences that we enjoy these days. You know the type of homes I'm taking about, an outlet here and there. Have you ever seen a GFCI outlet in one of these older homes? I doubt it! That's what is nice about a remodeling project, you can make your home brand new and up to code.
There are at least seven circuits that are needed in a kitchen and that is the minimum, but by no means the only circuits you may want to add for your convenience. There is a 15-amp basic lighting circuit, two 20-amp small appliance circuits, and five dedicated circuits for specific appliances. A good rule of thumb is that if an appliance has a motor, it needs its own circuit.

Basic Lighting Circuit
A 15-amp, 120-volt circuit powers the ceiling fixtures, recessed can lights, and task lighting in the room. Lighting circuits can be run with 14-2 and 14-3 electrical wire.

Refrigerator Circuit
Refrigerators have gotten larger and larger as we Americans seem to eat more and more. Now we have refrigerators with built-in ice makers and water/ice dispensers built right in the door. These massive glorified ice boxes can really use a lot of power. This circuit should be a dedicated 20-amp, 120-volt circuit.

Range Circuit
Electric range circuits are needed to power the cooking area of you new kitchen. This 50-amp, 240-volt dedicated circuit supplies the power to the range/oven through a 6-3 electrical wire. Ranges have a special cord that plugs into a special range outlet.

Microwave Circuit
Microwaves too have gotten larger over the years and have demanded more and more power due to their amount of wattage use. It is quite common to have 1,200-watt draws from these appliances. They require a dedicated 20-amp, 120-volt circuit, wired with 12-2 cable.

Food Disposer
The food disposer makes quick cleanup of the garbage left over on your plates. It too is relatively new to the kitchen area. This appliance requires a separate 15-amp, 120-volt circuit and is wired with 14-2 cable. In some instances, check your local codes, the disposal and dishwasher may share a circuit, but my suggestion is to have a separate circuit for each.

Dishwasher Circuit
The dishwasher circuit is also a 15-amp, 120-volt circuit and is wired with 14-2 cable. As you know, in the olden days, the dishwasher stood in front of the sink and washed by hand.

Small Appliance Circuits
    • Small appliance circuits are those that supply, well, small portable appliances. These may include toasters, waffle irons, coffee pots, electric griddles, popcorn machines, can openers, blenders, juicers, crock pots, etc... There must be at least two dedicated circuits for these countertop and eating area outlets. Remember, the countertop outlets should not be farther than four feet apart. There is a minimum of two 20-amp, 120-volt dedicated circuits, wired with 12-2 and/or 12-3 cable.

Circut Breaker

       
A Residual-Current Circuit Breaker (RCCB) is an electrical wiring device that disconnects a circuit whenever it detects that the electric current is not balanced between the energized conductor and the return neutral conductor. Such an imbalance may indicate current leakage through the body of a person who is grounded and accidentally touching the energized part of the circuit. A lethal shock...

Wiring in older homes

Modernizing Old Wiring







Assuming an equipment grounding conductor is present, is the wiring inadequate because you are using too many lights? too many floor lamps? too many radios and TVs? That is seldom the case. The wiring usually is inadequate because you have added many electrical appliances that were not considered or perhaps were not even on the market at the time of the original wiring job. The installation does not provide enough circuits to operate a wide assortment of small kitchen appliances, plus range, water heater, clothes dryer, room air conditioners and other heavy appliances. Some of these operate on 240-volt circuits, which may not be available; others operate at 120 volts but when plugged into existing circuits they overload those circuits. In addition, the service entrance equipment may be just too small for the load.


Re-wiring in homes

Problems of "Old Work"

There is little difference between old and new work, except that in old work there are a great many problems of carpentry. The problem is to cut an opening where a fixture is to be installed, and another where a switch is to be installed, and then to get the cable inside the wall from one opening to the other with the least amount of work and without tearing up the walls or ceilings more than necessary.

One house to be wired may be five years old, another a hundred years old. Different builders use different methods of carpentry. Every job will be unique. No book can possibly describe all the methods used and all the problems you will meet. Watch buildings while they are being built to get an idea of construction at various points. In old work, good common sense is of more value than many pages of instruction.

In general, old work requires more material because it is often wise to use ten extra feet of cable to avoid cutting extra openings in the walls or to avoid cutting timbers. Many problems can be solved without cutting any openings except the ones to be used for outlet boxes and switch boxes. Others require temporary openings in the wall that must later be repaired. Techniques are given in this chapter for running cable behind walls and ceilings, and for installing boxes, switches, receptacles, and outlets in both lath-and-plaster and drywall construction.

Social Media

Social media offers professionals a unique chance to connect with potential clients. It’s a casual and friendly way to promote your business and showcase your most valuable services. While the benefits are obvious, it’s not always clear how home improvement professionals can use social media to improve their business.
We thought our expert panel could help shed some light on how home improvement professionals are using social media.
How Is Social Media Affecting Your Business?
How do you use social media? What sites do you feel are the most important to target? What sort of things do you post? How frequently do you post? Do you think social media helps or hurts your business? If you don’t use social media, what are your reasons?
Our home improvement experts have shared how they use social media to enhance their marketing efforts. Below, you’ll find some of the most intriguing ideas and answers. Check back later this week for a wrap-up article that includes information from all of our experts and from our creative team, who are currently attending the Social Media Summit.

Saturday, May 12, 2012

Home Inspection

A home inspection is a limited, non-invasive examination of the condition of a home, often in connection with the sale of that home. Home inspections are usually conducted by a home inspector who has the training and certifications to perform such inspections. The inspector prepares and delivers to the client a written report of findings. The client then uses the knowledge gained to make informed decisions about their pending real estate purchase. The home inspector describes the condition of the home at the time of inspection but does not guarantee future condition, efficiency, or life expectancy of systems or components.[1]
An inspector will check the roof, basement, heating system, water heater, air-conditioning system, structure, plumbing, electrical, and many other aspects of buildings looking for improper building practices, those items that require extensive repairs, items that are general maintenance issues, as well as some fire and safety issues.[2] However, it should also be noted that a home inspection is not technically exhaustive and does not imply that every defect will be discovered. A general list of exclusions include but are not limited to: code or zoning violations, permit research, property measurements or surveys, boundaries, easements or right of way, conditions of title, proximity to environmental hazards, noise interference, soil or geological conditions, well water systems or water quality, underground sewer lines and/or waste disposal systems, buried piping, cisterns, underground water tanks and sprinkler systems to name a few. A complete list of standards and procedures for home inspections can be found at NAHI, ASHI or InterNACHI or IHINA websites

Saturday, May 5, 2012

electric panel

nice, neat, clean, functional     www.kansas-electrician.com

elecricial surge prtection

Electrical surge protection

Nearly every appliance like refrigerators, microwaves, stoves, furnaces, central air conditioners and dishwashers contain microprocessor circuit boards to control their operation. All this equipment can easily be damaged by a power surge. A power surge may come from electrical storms, utility line power spikes or drops above and below normal operating parameters and even from inside the home caused by items that draw heavy loads on your electrical system like air conditioners, dryers, ovens and office equipment.

A Two-Tiered Approach

Having a good quality surge power strip is your first defense against most electrical surges. They don't actually suppress or arrest a surge they actually divert the surge to your home's ground system, which is another reason to have your electrical wiring checked for proper grounding.
Many homeowners believe that adequate surge protection begins and ends with plugging their computer into a power strip, but a more comprehensive approach to surge protection is to combine them with a electrical panel surge protector, which mounts in or on your main electrical panel or at the base of the electric meter. And, if the power surge is created from a lightning strike, or power fluctuation on the utility lines, the service entrance surge protection device can reduce the power surge to a lower level before it gets to a point-of-use surge protection device
www.kansas-electrician.com

Thursday, May 3, 2012

bath- how to double space & light

How to Double the Space and Light in a Bath




Photo: Michael Luppino
You work out, you sweat, you shower. But if both of you work out and sweat—well, then you fight for the shower. Which is why the flashpoint of many busy households is waiting to get under the hot water. Mark and Alexandra Smith, admitted gym rats and outdoor sports enthusiasts, solved that problem when they built a shower for two as part of a large-scale renovation of their Southampton, New York, home.
Annexing a section of a second-floor roof deck, the Smiths created a spacious 10-by-19-foot master bath, which accommodates two sinks along a 10-foot stretch of countertop and two dressing closets. "Our goal was room to move," says Mark. "We were used to bumping into each other in the bathroom."
While they had no problem getting rid of the pink plastic-laminate vanity in their old bath, they needed local architect Erica Broberg to integrate their wish lists for the new space. Mark wanted to see the outdoors from a multi-spray shower and Alexandra wanted a clean, modern look. The couple agreed on the use of rich, natural materials: highly textured, mottled slate tiles for the floor; limestone on the walls; and a mix of maple cabinets and mahogany millwork. The Smiths also insisted the space usher in the outdoors as much as possible. So Broberg added twin skylights ("Now I wish we had put in four," says Mark), suspended mirrors over each basin to allow the window behind to peek through, and installed a sliding door to the deck. All of which amplify natural light—as well as the sunset view while showering after an evening run.
framed mirror and Kohler vessel sinkPhoto: Michael LuppinoA framed mirror is suspended from the window casing above each Kohler vessel sink.
pocket door mirrorPhoto: Michael LuppinoAnother serves as a closet pocket door.
double limestone shower enclosed in frameless glassPhoto: Michael LuppinoThe 5-by-8-foot limestone shower is partially enclosed in frameless glass to preserve the view outside. In addition to two showerheads and multiple body sprays, it has built-in corner seats and wall niches for toiletries.
master bedroom floor plans, before and afterFloor plans: Ian WorpoleB. Before: The old bath had everything but room to move.
A. After: Nearly doubled in size, the new space has an extra-long vanity, a two-person shower, and a pair of dressing closets.
 

electric panels- outdated

The circuit breaker panel is one of the most important parts of a home’s electrical system. It constantly distributes and receives electricity. The panel protects homes from power surges and other possible hazards. With regular maintenance by a licensed electrician, experts say that today’s electrical panels can function properly and protect homes for 30 years or more.

Older Panels Can't Handle Current Society's Elecrical Demands


Older homes with outdated electrical panels can’t handle the electrical needs of today’s current society. In the past, 60-amp service was considered more than enough. Today, people’s power requirements are much greater.
Among a variety of older panels, there are two distinct types that electricians will recommend upgrading the most. They offer unique problems for homes. These two types of panels are fuse boxes and split-bus panels.
1. Fuse boxes were the precursor to the panel box. If an overcurrent or short circuit occurred, a fuse would pop and have to be replaced. This is where problems regularly occur. When replacing the blown fuse, especially if it routinely happened, people would:
  • For example, replace a 15-amp fuse with a 20- or 30-amp fuse. That creates a massive fire hazard; the wires are not able to handle that much electricity and heat!
  • Insert a coin, usually a penny, where the blown fuse once was. That possibly presents an even larger fire hazard! That fuse can never pop, no matter how much electricity surges through it. It leaves the home open to the potential for a fire risk.
2. Split-bus panels present unique challenges as well. Namely, these panels do not have a main breaker; instead, they have a smaller breaker feeding the bottom half of the panel. These smaller breakers have been known to melt or burn due to the excessive demand placed on them. Today, split-buss panels probably would not be UL listed and would not be considered a safe option.

http://www.kansas-electrician.com

Wednesday, May 2, 2012

electrician / preventive maintenance


Have you ever noticed your electrical system doesn’t give out randomly during your regular routine? No, it tends to fail during the big dinner party, an important business meeting, or, just as bad, in the middle of the night. "The alarm didn't go off this morning...." Not acceptable.
We depend on our electrical systems every day, and like most things, they perform better with a little TLC. Experience has shown that certain key areas of every electrical system are the most common sites of failure-without-warning.
The leading cause of failure is lack of maintenance.This becomes vital with older homes, but often overlooked until a threat or problem presents itself. With an annual inspection and regular maintenance, your electrical system will work at peak efficiency.
Potential problems are spotted before they interrupt your life or day-to-day business, and before the cost of repair gets out of hand.
Our Preventive Maintenance program can prevent worries and inconvenience, while saving you money!
Call to schedule a consultation. We will meet with you and discuss how we can tailor the program to best meet your needs.
All Tech Electric & Contracting LLC is a licensed and insured in both Kansas and Missouri.
Have great ideas for your home or business? So do we!!