Electrical Panel Upgrade

The ability for a home owner to make improvements in their home may depend on the size of their electrical panel. In most jurisdictions the minimum size electrical panel is 150 amps. Many appliances in your home require dedicated circuits. The more appliances one has in their home the larger the panel needs to be. The expression "heavy-up" refers to increasing the capacity of the electrical panel from its current size to a larger size. Heavy-up could also mean changing your fuse panel to a circuit breaker panel. It is important to note there are some home insurance companies that will not insure homes with fuse panels. This is because homeowners could possibly install the wrong fuse (larger) in the fuse holder allowing more current to flow through the electrical circuit. When an electrical wire (eg. size 14awg will carry 15 amps) is over fused and is able to carry more current for which the wire is rated. This conductor could overheat and possibly start a fire. Many appliances are required to be on dedicated circuits so that the circuits will not become over loaded and "trip" the circuit breaker. When the breaker trips it is a safety precaution. It means the wire is carrying more current than what it is rated for and the breaker trips to protect the wire from overheating and fire. Breakers will also trip when the current is shorted to ground.
There are three basic parts to the heavy-up. They are the service cable, the breaker panel and the grounding. All three comprise the heavy-up process and all three are important and must be completed in order for the heavy-up process to be complete. Please remember the heavy-up process will require an electrical permit and only a licensed electrical contractor can obtain an electrical permit from the jurisdiction in which they are licensed. You should ask to see the electrical permit before allowing the contractor to start the work and definitely have the permit before you make the final payment. The service entrance cable (SEC) runs from the top of the house to the power company meter and on to the electrical panel. This wire is rated for the same size as your new electrical panel. If your service is being increased to 200 amps, your service cable must be rated at 200 amps also. The second part of the job is the electrical panel. The electrical panel must have a main breaker. This is to protect the SEC feeding the new panel. The new panel will likely have the ability to hold 40 single pole breakers. This is an important item to check on your contract. Some panels may only hold 20 breakers. Once the panel is full the only way to get additional circuits is to use tandem breakers which are more expensive or to install a sub panel which is substantially more expensive. The 40 space panel is slightly more expensive than a 20 space panel but worth the investment. You certainly want room for future expansion. The last item and possibly the most important of the heavy-up is the grounding. Although somewhat technical I will keep the explanation simple. The grounding system has two basic functions one to protect against lightning strikes and two to protect against faults. The two grounding conductors must be continuous without splice and as short as possible. The first ground is from the electrical panel to a ground rod. Other methods are acceptable but the ground rod is the most popular. The second ground is from the electrical panel to the main cold water cut off connection. Some jurisdictions require the gas line to also be grounded. This is another reason why using a licensed contractor and obtaining an electrical permit is important. In addition to having a licensed contractor who should know what they are doing you will also have an electrical inspector check the final installation.
The final person you will be dealing with is your power utility company. They will make the final connections in the meter socket and at the top near the roof. The cables will be temporarily spliced together by the electrical contractor so you will have power but the power company will make the permanent connections. This process may take a while depending on the time of year and the power company.  Your electrical contractor may be able to help you if the process is taking too long. The temporary splices may be unsightly but the electrical contractor will make them safe. I am sure you will not hurt their feelings if you question him on the safety of the splices.

There are different scenarios in doing a heavy up but the one I have described above is the most common. Of all heavy up scenarios possible the one described above would cover at least 85% of all installations. Another reason to work with a licensed contractor and to obtain a permit is that any deviation from above the contractor would know how to handle the change and the inspector would know what to look for. Always contact your local jurisdiction to find out if the contractor submitting the bid is licensed in that jurisdiction. Remember this is your home and your first priority is safety.

Is this OSHA approved?

Larry Madura: Is this Osha approved?
38 minutes ago · Like

Kansas Electrician: they pushed him off....no time to waste on a pointed finger-shaking disciplinary with a freakin check list. "We got shit to build here dude!! go take a leap moron!! Here-lemme help you!!"

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Utility Meter

Utility Meter Surveys

Are you paying for some of your neighbor's utility bills?

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Bathrooms- Exhaust Vent and Fan

Exhaust Vent and Fan

The sink, tub and especially the shower introduce a lot of moisture into the bathroom. Therefore, proper ventilation of the bathroom is essential to prevent mold, rot or other moisture-related problems. Exhaust fans and vents are installed to ventilate and remove moisture in all new bathrooms. The fan unit is usually ceiling-mounted and directs the air through a vent to the exterior of the house. Though now generaly required on new homes, older houses often make use of a window instead of exhaust fans to ventilate the bathroom.
A common problem with exhaust fans and vents is when the vent terminates someplace other than the exterior of the building. Improperly terminated exhaust vents typically terminate in the attic, which causes excessive moisture in the attic. This buildup of excessive moisture can lead to moisture-related problems such as wood rot in the structural components of the home.
Many exhaust fans do more than just vent. Additionally, exhaust fans integrate normal incandescent or neon lighting within the fan housing. Some even integrate infrared heat lamps to warm the bathroom.     All Tech Electric & Contracting LLC

Smoke Detectors

Smoke Detector Inspection Guidelines

Smoke detectors are a simple and efficient way to protect homeowners from severe injury or even deaths resulting from home fires. The Housing and Urban Development (HUD) estimates that a home fire occurs every 66 seconds in the U.S. The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) estimates that having operating smoke detectors in the home reduce the possibility of dying from a fire by 50%. However, even though an estimated 13 out of 14 homes (93%) have at least one smoke detector, an estimated 1/3 of the smoke detectors are not properly maintained or operating.

The value of smoke detectors is underestimated due to common misconceptions about their usefulness and a person's inability to detect a fire on their own. Here are some important facts about fires.

• The majority of fires occur at night when the occupants of the home are sleeping.
• If a fire starts in the living room of a home, occupants in a bedroom on the same level could be dead in as little as two minutes.
• Most victims of fires die of smoke asphyxiation.
• Smoke will NOT wake up the occupant. On the contrary, gasses and smoke will numb the senses and cause unconsciousness.

Smoke detectors are designed to give the occupants in the home precious few minutes they need to escape.

Home Inspections- Kitchen

Kitchen Appliance Inspections

Ranges and Wall Ovens - Ranges and ovens normally last 15-20 years, however, some units may last 30 years or more.

• Turn on all heating elements to see that they are functioning properly.
• Check the "clean" cycle. The instructions for checking the "clean" cycle are usually printed on the oven door or in the vicinity of the control mechanism.
• Ensure that a gas range has a pilot light, and that it does, in fact, light the burners.
• If conditions are suspect, and an electric range is present, you may want to turn all the range and oven elements on at the same time. The circuit breaker may be undersized or defective and may trip.
• Indicator lights, as well as interior lights often do not work.
• Are the smooth surface type of electric ranges scratched, marred?
• You should not be able to tip a range/oven forward more than 1 - 1.5 inches. If you can tip the range more than that, then the unit does not have anti-tip brackets installed. These brackets are installed on the wall behind the range/oven, usually engaging one of the ‘feet', to help prevent the range/oven from tipping over and possibly spilling boiling pots on the range.
• If you can view behind the gas range/oven, check to see if a shut off valve is present on the gas line.
• It is currently recommended all gas lines be either black pipe or flexible steel (or even stainless steel; CSST). If you see brass or copper, then the line will need to be replaced. These two materials (brass and copper) are no longer approved for use with natural gas. Note: copper is still acceptable for use with propane.

Refrigerators - The life expectancy of refrigerators is 15-20 years.

• Check to see that they do, in fact, cool.
• Check the bottom of the door gasket for condition. Look for signs of moisture, rust or condensation on metal surfaces near the seal.
• Shelves in older refrigerators may be broken or the liner may be cracked.
• Many refrigerators have reversible door hinges, which are very easy to change.
• If the refrigerator is built in to the cabinets, take a look at the compressor and associated fan. These items will require periodic cleaning (more often with animals present) to help maintain the efficiency of the unit.
• Remember, if a refrigerator has a built in filter for drinking water, it will require periodic changing.

Garbage Disposals - The life expectancy of garbage disposals is 5-10 years.

• Water should be run through the disposal during operation.
• The disposals that make a great deal of noise are very often failing or near the end of their life.
  
• The dishwasher is allowed to discharge into the garbage disposal.
• Check the wiring under the sink; no exposed wiring
• Check the rubber splash guard. If this is damaged, then water could be thrown back up into the kitchen.

Dishwashers - The life expectancy is 7-12 years.

• Let the dishwasher run through a light or full cycle.
• Check the soap tray for proper operation after a cycle is complete.
• Check the gasket around the door.
• Run your hand under the front panel of the dishwasher after operation to check for leaks.
• If the air gap at the top of the sink exhibits previous or current evidence of overflow, it indicates that the water is not being discharged properly.
• Newer models have a water heating cycle allowing the occupant to limit the domestic hot water to 110° Fahrenheit.

Ventilator - The life expectancy of a ventilator is normally 20+ years.

• Recirculating can either be free standing or can be incorporated into a microwave.
• Exterior discharge: either through a side exterior wall or the roof, and ‘downdraft' which discharges the air down through a duct below the floor, then to the exterior.
• Recirculating ventilators can sometimes be configured for either recirculating or exterior discharge. Turn the unit on and try to determine where the air vents to. If you don't feel it coming out of the top of the front of the unit, then check the cabinets above for a vent. If a vent is present, follow the vent to make sure the air is properly discharged to the exterior. Sometimes recirculating ventilators are improperly installed: they are configured for direct vent, yet no vent is available.
• Check to ensure that the exterior discharge ventilators actually vent to the outside. This is easily done by turning it on and going outside to observe an air flow (the weather flap will move).
• Check to ensure that the ventilator has a filter(s).

Trash Compactors - The life expectancy of a trash compactor is approximately 5-10 years.

• The best way to check a trash compactor is to start it through a cycle, then stop it and attempt to open the door. If the plunger is in the “down” position, you should not be able to open it, and it is probably operating properly.
• Trash compactors are not very popular. The reason for this is that the garbage bags are costly; they also have a tendency to produce odors and attract pests.

Inside Barbecue Grills

• Interior barbecue grills normally are of a brick configuration. They are often poorly designed and may smoke. Carefully observe the surrounding surfaces for smoke stains.

Counter Built-In Food Processors

• They are less popular in newer construction.
• These are devices that have a variety of attachments for processing food. There are two round disks located in the top of the counter; one is a switch, the other is a drive shaft. Check the drive shaft to be sure it is operating (i.e. turning).

Electrical Outlets

• Modern code requires one 20 amp electrical outlet for every 4 linear feet of counter space. In most jurisdictions, these outlets must be GFCI protected when located within 6 feet of the sink.
• Shorter pieces of counter, about 2 feet long, require an additional outlet. Older homes frequently have an insufficient number of outlets for modern codes, however, they are not required in homes built before the respective codes.

Intercoms

• The master station of intercoms is often located in the kitchen.
• When you are at the master station, turn on the master and each of the stations. As you go through the various rooms, check to make sure the stations are working.

Microwave Ovens

• Microwave ovens are checked using a glass of water and heating it for about one minute.
• Surface lights (underside) should be checked for operability.

Instant Hot Appliances

• Instant hot appliances provide hot water through the use of an electric element, and are normally located at the kitchen sink. They should provide water at approximately 190°F.

Sink

• Check the "P" trap and associated piping beneath the sink to ensure that there are no leaks.www.kansas-electrician.com

Wire and Cable Amacities

Wire and Cable Ampacities

AWG#	COPPER	COPPERCLAD AL OR ALUMINUM
18	Typically lampcord wiring and low voltage applications
16	Typically lampcord wiring and low voltage applications
14	15 Amps
12	20 Amps	15 Amps
10	30 Amps	20 Amps
8	50 Amps	30 Amps
6	65 Amps	50 Amps
4	100 Amps	70 Amps
3	110 Amps	80 Amps
2	125 Amps	100 Amps
1	150 Amps	110 Amps
1/0	175 Amps	125 Amps
2/0	200 Amps	150 Amps
3/0		175 Amps
4/0		200 Amps